Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think sau is cams affiliated yeah?

if not where are you from? there are many clubs all over the place.

and you want a L2S to start off with 2NS is non speed.

I'm in Melbourne (S.E. Area)

Would it be wise to jump straight to PC or would you still need the 2S/2NS licence first?

I'd rather save money by going for the highest you can that will cover most, if not all the lower licences.

Thanks heaps for the quick reply Angus Smart and Beer Baron.

Edited by dalostcambo
  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

delostcambo, you only need a PC if you are doing full circuit racing, L2S will cover 99% of events and is $400 cheaper

I was thinking along the lines of importing a race car.. Can 2S do it or do you need PC?

  • 3 weeks later...

you will need a minimum or PC or NC or NR to import a race only car. but have you checked the requirement of a NC licence? you will need to compete in a minimum number of competetive events each year and we are not talking track days or supersprints. we are talking state series like historics, or improved production, or combined touring, or prod sports etc etc. have a look at the cams website but from memory the minimum number is 8 events per year which means at least $10K spent just on those 8 events, not including buying and prepping the car, and the licence costs.

How long are you guys waiting to get your licences? i applied for my L2S over 3 weeks ago :)

those bastards took 9 weeks to send our National rally licenses, we got them the day we got back from Targa. Real Helpful.

they are a disaster.

we got them to fax a temporary license the day before we needed it

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
really? i purchased the AASA (or whatever it is license a couple of times)

thats something totally different - yeah i have one of those too... (my 2nd yearly one)

("Australian Auto-Sport Alliannce" race license)

note: i might be wrong about the cams license too - but thought you weren't able to get the day license more than once...

(not that it matters! :rofl:)

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Hey David, SAU NSW and Vic are both CAMS affiliated so they are the best way to go in NSW and Vic. If you are elsewhere you can still join but you would need to go along to someone else's events anyway

Hey David, SAU NSW and Vic are both CAMS affiliated so they are the best way to go in NSW and Vic. If you are elsewhere you can still join but you would need to go along to someone else's events anyway

oh ok..so only nsw an vic ay...

"ou can still join but you would need to go along to someone else's events anyway"

wat u mean by that though?

well SAU NSW and Vic obviously only run events over here. So while a lot of clubs will invite other clubs to their events, you are better off just finding a WA based club. Head to the CAMS website and do a search for clubs in WA - have a look what seems relevent and give a couple of them a call

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...