Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Our GTR R33 VSpec was our daily drive (we clocked up 130000k's) doing the shopping etc.I'm retired.

Our current R34 Vspec is now our daily drive (it's the only car we have). It's fitted with two immobilisers,fuel cut off switch and if parking off the street a bull lock that fits over brake and clutch pedal.

Touch wood haven't had any dings. Most people generally give the car a wide birth when they park. I call it respect. I don't kid myself though. I know of a good spray painter in our area. Haven't used him yet

I'm a bit more particular where I park the 34. Preferably on the street where there is plenty of people around.

post-25792-1137221334.jpg

i daily drive my R32 GTS-t M during the summer but she's parked for the winter and i'm at the mercy of the g/f's protege or Audi A4 1.8T quattro. Parked the skyline on October 28, she'll probably come out around mid-april... we have short summers here in the great white north. But during that time, i drive about 600km/week.

My R33 GTR is not only a daily driver,it's my rep car.I do about 150-200km every day in it,then when I get home I run the kids around in it.I'm in the car for up to 6 hours a day.

They love being picked up from school in a 350rwkw GTR.

Before that I was using my 250rwkw S15.I did 185,000km in 4 years in that car.I only drive it about once a week now.

Doesnt make much sense owning a nice car and not driving it everyday.I've been doing that for 25 years now,never owned a shitter to drive while my GT/Challenger/Chevelle/GTR sat in the shed.

Our GTR R33 VSpec was our daily drive (we clocked up 130000k's) doing the  shopping etc.I'm retired.

Our current R34 Vspec is now our daily drive (it's the only car we have). It's fitted with two immobilisers,fuel cut off switch and if parking off the street a bull lock that fits over brake and clutch pedal.

Touch wood haven't had any dings. Most people generally give the car a wide birth when they park. I call it respect.  I don't kid myself though. I know of a good spray painter in our area. Haven't used him yet

I'm a bit more particular where I park the 34. Preferably on the street where there is plenty of people around.

blood,sweat and tears all for my 33 GTR  damn straight i'm gonna drive it everyday.

maybe becoz i cant afford these cars but to me these are awesome / expensive cars. how can you rack up so many K's in them and not worry about there health? or will you rebuild them or sell them when they die? coz i get worried about my daily shitter racking up so many K's. i do about 100k's a day. i know when i get my "weekend" car (skyline or supra) sometime this year i would feel so bad racking up so many K's. i proberly wouldnt want to rack up more then 20,000k's a year... on it.

i know some say, you bought it to drive till it dies or whatever. but i would have so much respect and know i worked hard and waited for the car that i wouldnt want to rack up the K's.... but then again thats what i said about my shitter and i only check the K's once a week.. haha

maybe becoz i cant afford these cars but to me these are awesome / expensive cars. how can you rack up so many K's in them and not worry about there health? or will you rebuild them or sell them when they die? coz i get worried about my daily shitter racking up so many K's. i do about 100k's a day. i know when i get my "weekend" car (skyline or supra) sometime this year i would feel so bad racking up so many K's. i proberly wouldnt want to rack up more then 20,000k's a year... on it.

i know some say, you bought it to drive till it dies or whatever. but i would have so much respect and know i worked hard and waited for the car that i wouldnt want to rack up the K's.... but then again thats what i said about my shitter and i only check the K's once a week.. haha

at the end of the day its a skyline, its not some uber mega rare museum piece. They're meant to be driven, and they're engineered to be regular road going cars. You don't have to worry about its health if you maintain them well and service them regularly. I did about 120km/day in my old line and when I sold it, it ran as well as it did when I got it. If you can't afford the upkeep, you shouldn't have bought the car in the first place, but if you can afford it, then drive it till the wheels fall off, which if done right, will never happen.

at the end of the day its a skyline, its not some uber mega rare museum piece. They're meant to be driven, and they're engineered to be regular road going cars. You don't have to worry about its health if you maintain them well and service them regularly. I did about 120km/day in my old line and when I sold it, it ran as well as it did when I got it. If you can't afford the upkeep, you shouldn't have bought the car in the first place, but if you can afford it, then drive it till the wheels fall off, which if done right, will never happen.

I believe the best thing for them is to be driven regularly and serviced regularly.

I do oil and filter every 5,000 kms. Changed all the belts and water pump 80,000 kms after it was done last time.

She has even done nearly 60 runs down the quarter at WSID on the SAU drag days.

El Bee

It's a car.. designed to be driven daily, so drive it daily.

If you can't afford to drive it daily / scared to... maybe you shouldn't own it?

Best thing about my r32, it's a bit rough around the edges in places, but drives smoothly, got a fair bit of power now, and I can park it anywhere and it doesn't really raise too much attention. And if I blow something up, I'll just replace it, as nothing is too much more expensive than any other car really -- just can be sometimes a bit harder to track down.

And if i get a scratch or small dent, its 'oh well, thats just another reason for that respray in a year or two', which would make it like new again.

To me, that's the way it should be..

my R33 is gonna be my daily driver as well once i get back to aus.

as ppl mentioned, y would u spend that much money on a car if u dont drive it?

my s15 was a daily driver as well b4 and i clocked around 30,000kms in 6 months time.

Mines a daily driver.

If i wanna conserve fuel i drive like a fairy and get around 12L/100km...  which is almost as good as my mums toyota corrola...

Daily driver with the power when its needed, cant do better then that.

hey man, :)

12L/100km is dirt good. How do u drive like a fairy? I mean, like at what RPM to you swap gears? I drop mine at 2000rpm and it takes 15L->100km.

Very interesting.Please share:)

Im a salez man and most people who no nothen about liners think they are all gtrs and the cost a fortune so the little bunky is good cause people do think you make much money tall popy sindrome people dont like seeing young people being sucsessful unless its there kids

i love to drive it daly

james

hey man, :P

12L/100km is dirt good. How do u drive like a fairy? I mean, like at what RPM to you swap gears? I drop mine at 2000rpm and it takes 15L->100km.

Very interesting.Please share:)

Hey mate

Yes it appears my line is running really sweet at the moment because 12L/100KM in a performance car is pretty amazing, in my eyes anyways.

Basically i change gears at around 3000RPM and constantly watch the vac/boost gauge. Keeping it as far from boost is what i aim to do - im usually not in rush to get places so its not hard to keep out of boost.

The cars been running like this since i bought it. I havent talked to the previous owner about what he has done but im thinking he may have replaced the O2 sensor and Air flow metre at some point before i purchased it. I'll never know.

The actuator rod fell off my S15 and I drove around for a week with no turbo/boost.Fuel economy was worse by 30km per tank.Whats this crap about keeping it off boost.I get 500km per 50 litres in my 250rwkw S15 and I only got 470km twice with no turbo!!!!

Skyline daily driver here too but would rather not.

Used to have a 86 Automatic Ford Meteor in 6 different shades of red, worst window tinting on the planet etc etc and people would actually avoid coming anywhere near it in traffic and would park anywhere but next to it :P

You should get better than 12L/100km if you really are feathering the throttle.

I get about 10.5L/100km if I drive like a grandma. Depends on the cycle. Heavy city driving yes 12 seems about right.

Remember its only when you come on to boost that they should consume more than a N/A car of the same weight/engine size.

My R33 is a daily driver. I find even 10-12L/100km quite costly drinking premium - compared to my SX 1.6 corolla - thashing that would give about 7.5L/100km on regular.

Im going to get a PFC tune to hopefully help the fuel consumption. I like the R33 though..plus there are a few minor blemishes which makes me less worried about it :P

Basically i change gears at around 3000RPM and constantly watch the vac/boost gauge. Keeping it as far from boost is what i aim to do - im usually not in rush to get places so its not hard to keep out of boost.

lol.. sounds like boring :P I redline mine fairly regularly from stand-still, and just drive it as I like to, and i get around 11-14L/100km. I'm running an RB25 turbo on my RB20 with 16psi of boost too.

Amazing really when you think thats really only the same as any other 6cylinder out there, and of course the skyline has a fair bit more power and fun. I think people are all too used to 4cylinders now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...