Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I also use BP ultimate. Can anyone tell me if there is a differance in the BP ultimate between the Gold handles on the pumps and the Blue ones. Am I the only one to notice. When I go interstate I use optimax though. I rang Shell here to ask why we dont get Optimax, they said it was due to the fact that they cannot make enough to supply all of Australia.

Originally posted by Chris32

Ok, seems everyone has had good results with the BP stuff, I think I will try that next time I have to fill up

4door_sleeper, octane booster does a good job of fouling platinum plugs, so for now its just running stock boost

And oxygen Sensor, Cat etc

Originally posted by EnricoPalazzo

Anyone tried the new Vortex GOLD?

it doenst have a RON rating but i filled up with it today at CALTEX

It's a 96RON fuel. Nothing different from the old Caltex premium, just a flashy name to keep up with the times, Optimax, Ultimate etc...

Put 3/4 of a tank of BP Ultimate in, is definatley (heaps) better than the fuel that was in there. Much smoother, and couldn't hear any detonation during some 'test' runs up thru the hills (did the same run as when i thought it detonated a few times)

Is definatley smoother mid to top end, and doesn't have as much shit come blasting out of the exhaust. Does tend to pop a bit under decel. but I can live with that

Might try it with a bit of toluene in it, but I will wait and see

roll on Autumn - I can't wait for some cool but dry weather:D

chris

I use either Mobil or BP with same results - my car doesn't seem to be fussy. I have also on a few occasions used Caltex Premium and it is :

1. ALWAYS cheaper (cos they guarantee only 5c/l price above unleaded) and

2. I seem to get a tiny bit better fuel economy from it too!

Fortunately even though I have turned up the boost to 13psi and still have the same cooler - I have never heard pinging from my SR20 .... however in 32degrees + weather I turn the boost back down to about 8psi, just in case!

Matt :) .... I am a big girls nightie - not a blouse :) .... you know its cos I don't have a decent cooler, poof! ;)

Which reminds me .... if anyone hears of a good cooler for sale can they please drop me a line?

Syn 8000 and Bp Optimax are the go. Dont put shit fuel in Performance cars. Or get a purple Chrysler on LPG. Least i dont have to wory about Oxygen sensors and computer tuning. 58 heater hose and a good ear is good for 12`s. Anything fuel injected can be tempramental with diff fuel sources. Oi Andrew u should try some Halo plugs in ya beast. the will help any combustion probs :]

http://www.halosparkplugs.net/r.cgi?test-AB1188

http://www.haloplug.com/

i reckon these might be a good thing for Munros Skyline but its his - Marks call on that one. They r around $30 each methinks from memory. Needs ECU reset if applicable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...