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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, Pom here.

Is there any info about draining and refilling the coolant system?

I seem to have some very nasty rusty looking water in my Stag and would like some info before i drop it all out.

Just how to refill and bleed the system would be great.

This site is brilliant for Stag info.

Cheers

Sy.

Hey guys, Pom here.

Is there any info about draining and refilling the coolant system?

I seem to have some very nasty rusty looking water in my Stag and would like some info before i drop it all out.

Just how to refill and bleed the system would be great.

This site is brilliant for Stag info.

Cheers

Sy.

Here is a picture of the bleed valve - mine has a little tag on it that says "never open when hot(courtesy of SK):

Cam_Belt_Air_Bleed_Small.jpg

Thank you :)

Is it just a case of taking the bottom hose off and draining it ?

I have seen the little cross headed screw thingy on the rad but after reading how they break then i'd rather take the hose off. I seem to have a little leak underneath the inlet manifold that's dripping onto the oil filter, Is there anything around there that's common for leaking ?

Also what kind of coolant to use ?

I got no service history or booklets with this car ( Big gamble huh !) So im literally flying blind at the mo.

Didn't stop me doing the high boost mod and chucking the Apexi filter on today though .. :P

  • 4 weeks later...

hey all i am new here have a rs4 97 had nothing but dramas since i bought it (not to the cars fault) had some drunk hit me in the rear 2400 for standard bar so the joy begain body kit (from monkey warehouse) all the prep that go's with it and then the fiting was bodgie after hours of work had to go with the best i could do was not happy and the the frount mount done with no effort at all and then the elec boost controller then was happy with the over all performance of the wgn even with the 4-5 coil pack miss unitl now was not that badthis is a family car if the idiot had not hit me it would still be stock execpt cat back. i have 9 month old twins and cant stand commodore's hance the stagea. the miss seems to be the coil packs i only run 7psi in it as i cant go any higher has any one fixed this prob with just new coil packs or do i just go and get fuel cut as well would like to run 10psi or higher (for when i am on my own) i am prepared so spendthe money for coil packs but that is it as it needs new suspension and need to save mu pennys

i would also like to thank everyone for this godly place would still be licking wounds if it was not for all the info found hear when ever i am in doubt i come STRAIGHT hear and find much comfort..

again many THANKZ to you all

will give my system a flush now

Coil packs are expensive. have you checkd your plugs? Get a set of coppers gapped to 0.8mm (NGK BCPR7ES-8 are pre-gapped). If that doesn't fix it try to borrow some coils before you fork out for new ones (Yellow jackets seem to be as good as the splitfires but cheaper).

As for the tuning get an Apexi SAFC (old cheap one will do) and if you can find one an SITC for the timing.

BTW if you do a search on coil packs you'll find lots of ideas for insulating them with tape or epoxy.

Well annually should be fine for plugs but sounds as though you may need coil.

SAFC is fo adjusting air/fuel ratios .. will overcome rich/retard (what you were referring to as fuel/boost cut.

Basic models are $100 -$200 there is a flash one with blue screen in the skyline parts for sale of this website

Google Apexi SAFC for more info

thanks heapswill ask my mate if he can get me one aswell as the coil's.....

are you born and breed in nz??

i am from kaitaia(though born in aussie so got the best of both worlds a convict and kiwi)

wife is from d'urville island.

the coil packs seem to bee the most common thing that stops boost is this right??

is this just because they are crap[ or is there a tech reason they cant handle boost??

will spend the rest of the night catchin up on SAFC

many thanx again

  • 5 months later...

I remember someone put some DIY intercooler cleaning but can't find it anywhere, think they had half and half mix of turpentine and metho from memory with a rinse of water at the end. I read on some other site people using vacuums to dry them out.

I remember someone put some DIY intercooler cleaning but can't find it anywhere, think they had half and half mix of turpentine and metho from memory with a rinse of water at the end. I read on some other site people using vacuums to dry them out.
Yes its in the DIY sticky>intercoolers>>R34GTT i/c into stagea (and its kerosene and meths).
  • 11 months later...

(Yellow jackets seem to be as good as the splitfires but cheaper).

Don't buy the rip off splitfires (yellow jackets/Just Jap/Red jackets etc) as they're a poor substitute. The voltage output is all over the show and the latency is very slow. They also don't seem to last to long either.

Origional or Splitfires.

Cheers

Justin

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. 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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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