Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got mine bak

need an EBC cause my boost curve is shit atm u can feel the lag more cause its gota build up (no boost controller atm)

so get EBC might make bit more power but no to bad atm :P

206.9rwkw @ 14.5psi

post-23551-1193732677_thumb.jpg

A31 1988 Cefiro

Mods: Fresh STD rebuilt RB20 engine ~5000kms so far

Boostworx remapped STD ECU (still untuned for new turbo), Bosch 040, Hybrid front mount, very quiet exhaust (3inch), Garret T3G turbo ~15psi, Blitz pod and HKS EBC 2.

Now making 214RWKW at 15psi, dyno sheet to be updated soon

CeffDynoT3GB.jpg

Edited by Ceffy_SA

1990 r32 gtst

gt3071r

550cc injectors

walbro fuel pump

tuneagent exhaust manifold

full exhaust system with custom dump

just jap cooler with custom piping

sm4 autronic ecu

stock internals

the car made 248.7rwkw but its now tuned at 241.4rwkw

ill try and post up dyno sheet but my scanner is playing up.

Thought I'd post up my old RB20 results for all to see :P

Car consisted of:

- internally standard RB20DET (silvertop)

- s1 RB25 turbo

- china fmic + piping

- Xforce split dump pipe

- 3" front pipe

- 3" decat pipe

- 2.75" cat back into canon

- 044 pump mounted intank

- generic metal pod filter

- Greddy Profec B spec2 (haven't spent much time smoothing out the boost curve)

This was untuned running 12psi (ignore the red line, that was when we tried to run 14psi, it made ~260rwhp but started to ping up high)

post-31803-1195015508.jpg

Edited by bubba
  • 2 weeks later...

Mods:

Hks 2530

hybrid front mount

3 inch split dump> high flow cat (catco? i think) > trust power extreme 2

550cc siemens injectors

EMS Stinger 3

turbosmart boost tee

bosch 040

low run 12.5 psi

high run 17.5 psi

stoked goes well :P

post-33052-1196065739_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Internally stock rb20

turbo back exhaust straight through

apexi pod

hks evc

apexi safc2

stock turbo,injectors, afm

30 degree day.

237rwhp or 177rwkw

update soon with z32, hiflow33 turbo, bigger injectors.

img_Z050632_0001.pdf

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

RB20

garrett GT35-40R turbo

port and polished head

600hp fuel pump

750cc injectors

trust 600X300 front mount

apexi power fc engine management

3'' exhaust turbo back

k&n pod filter with cool air induction

Mathew Spry tuned it and it made 380 rwhp at 19psi and ran a 12.3 at 128mph.

RB20DET

standard Internals

177,000+Kms

272hp atw @1.2k boost

MODS:

Apexi Power FC

HKS 2535

External Wastegate 45mm? I should have measured it...

550 Denso injectors

Z32 AFM

Old style BLITZ? FMIC

Bosch pump

3in from turbo, hi flow(ed) cat

just got the car.

loosing boost at top end due to cheap bleed valve.

Im measuring 550km on one tank (40L) with highway driving. 350km for city driving...

Thanks to the guys at Hyperdrive!

post-43013-1200550955_thumb.jpg

Edited by ZOKU
  • 2 weeks later...

1992 R32 GTS-t Manual

Stock turbo

FMIC

3" cat back

pod filter

20psi

BP ultimate 98

Every thing else STOCK ah yes slipping clutch

271HP 202Kw

post-5249-1187855228.jpg

Edited by Steve-o 45LDE

R31 Nissan Skyline

Engine: 1992 R32 RB20 Silvertop

Mods: 600x300x76 Intercooler

Custom 2.5in Stainless Cooler Piping

Stainless 3in Exhaust

3in Front/Dump Pipe

High Flow Just Jap 3in Cat

GFB Bleed Valve set to 14psi bleeding back to 11psi

HKS Pod Filter

Everything thing else is stock. Car was tuned by 'The Speed Lab'.

174.1kw

DynoSheet.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

RB20DET stock

HD Industries ex manifold , VL T3/T04 , Tial 38mm waste gate , bosch 044 fuel pump , bosch 363 injectors ,

Motec M800 , Custom plenum , 70mm throtle body , 600 x 300 x 105 FMIC

233 rwkw at 16lb boost

the 159kw was when it was powered by a L20B Turbo

STU

post-37725-1203230936_thumb.jpg

post-37725-1203231985_thumb.jpg

Edited by RB20DET BLUEBIRD
  • 2 weeks later...

stock RB20

Hks 2530 @ 1.3bar (2510 rebuilt with garrett spec 2530 sized turbine)

GTR injectors

Blitz dualSBC

EMS

HKS dump into 3" zaust 2 mufflers no cat

600x300 fmic

lil disappointed but the motor is very tired

289.4rwhp @ 6100rpm

384.6 Nm torque @ 4600rpm

dyno sheet coming.

92' R32 GTS-t

Mods:

- Internally standard RB20

- GKTech split dump+front 3"

- super high-flow cat tongue.gif

- 3.5" cat-back

- Apexi Pod

- Hybrid Front-Mount

- Bosch 040 Pump

- Running on standard boost = 159.0rwkw - Pretty happy with that.

post-2240-1204552040_thumb.jpg

Cheers,

Steve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...