Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?)

I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs.

Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try ..

Cheers from London :P

CLick here for the picture ...

dual - tri - quad spark they're all around on bigger machines. I just go with what works.

Hello there ...

BCPR6ES ->

BC = TREAD DIAMETER = 14mm

PR = PROTECTED INSULATOR + RESISTOR

6 = HEAT RANGE

E = THREAD LENGTH = 19mm

S = STANDARD SPARK PLUG TYPE

BKR6E-11 ->

BK = THREAD DIAMETER = 14mm

R = RESISTOR

6 = HEAT RANGE

E = THREAD LENGTH = 19mm

11 = SPARK GAP = 1.1mm

So the only difference between those 2 is that you have a protected insulator type (whatever this is?) and a standard gap as opposed to 1.1mm.

I hope this helps :mellow:

Cheers from London,

Andrew

the BK plug is shorter from the washer to the terminal (where the lead or coil clips on) than the BC plug by 2.5mm. so using the BC plug is going to make it sit up into the coilpacks a bit better and probably help with contact in the coils

the BK plug is shorter from the washer to the terminal (where the lead or coil clips on) than the BC plug by 2.5mm. so using the BC plug is going to make it sit up into the coilpacks a bit better and probably help with contact in the coils

Hi there ...

Thanks for the information .. I was already scratching my head why there is BC and BK when it's the same thread diameter anyway.

Cheers from London :iluvff:

Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?)

I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs.

Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try ..

Cheers from London :iluvff:

CLick here for the picture ...

The number of ground electrode doesn't improve the intensity of the spark, it only serve to prolong plug life by distributing the spark erosion among the 2 electrode. The key to stronger spark are smaller centre electrode provided by iridium or platinum, the smaller the centre electrode the better.

Ignition sequence

Edited by Trex101
Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?)

I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs.

Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try ..

Cheers from London :iluvff:

CLick here for the picture ...

To be honest the less plug in the chamber the better, extra electrodes offer more places for hot spots to form (early detonation) i find with super 4's and the multi lectrode plugs that as the engines heats up under race type conditions the amount of total timing the engine will take is BELOW that of single electrode plugs.

My pick for high horsepower engines (these make power :D ) are the fine NON projected plugs (see below) or for general performance simple BCPR7E

post-34927-1247727778_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
The number of ground electrode doesn't improve the intensity of the spark, it only serve to prolong plug life by distributing the spark erosion among the 2 electrode. The key to stronger spark are smaller centre electrode provided by iridium or platinum, the smaller the centre electrode the better.

Ignition sequence

Hi,

But doesn't the area where the ignition actually happens increase due to the 2 electrodes?

?

To be honest the less plug in the chamber the better, extra electrodes offer more places for hot spots to form (early detonation) i find with super 4's and the multi lectrode plugs that as the engines heats up under race type conditions the amount of total timing the engine will take is BELOW that of single electrode plugs.

My pick for high horsepower engines (these make power :iluvff: ) are the fine NON projected plugs (see below) or for general performance simple BCPR7E

Hmmm .. interesting!

What do you think causes the heatup?

As for 'the less plug, the better' I agree.

I don't know how the combustion chamber (in the head) looks like in a Skyline.

Does the plug sit in some kind of recess or is it just 'dangling' in the middle?

Cheers,

Andrew

it only earths to one, not all. Therefore your just shiilding the spark with the other earths.

Single is best!

But if you look at the picture you see that both electrodes are on earth.

(Or did I get you wrong?)

The spark should therefore distribute evenly between the 3 electrodes...

(at least that was my idea about the whole thing)

But if you look at the picture you see that both electrodes are on earth.

(Or did I get you wrong?)

The spark should therefore distribute evenly between the 3 electrodes...

(at least that was my idea about the whole thing)

Contrary to popular belief, multi-ground does not mean multi-spark. The spark will only jump once at a time to the lowest resistance ground.

Multi-Ground

Contrary to popular belief, multi-ground does not mean multi-spark. The spark will only jump once at a time to the lowest resistance ground.

Multi-Ground

Hmmm ...

Quite interesting ...

But I think that depending on the ignition system there actually could be two sparks forming.

If the ignition voltage/energy is not very high there will be just one spark developing, and it this makes perfectly sense...

However, if there is a very energetic ignition system present, it's a whole different story.

I will check in a lab test which way the sparks go. :P

Thanks for the link! :P

  • 1 month later...

are the regular NGK plugs copper?

i bought some BCPR6E-11 plugs today (these must be the V-power ones coz they got that grove in the electrode) just wondering if these ARE copper plugs as the guy behind the counter said they're just regular plugs. btw they cost $17 for 6

http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125ngkcode.html

BCPR6E & BCPR6ES are the same, its BCPR6EY which have the V in.

Normal spark plugs arent copper, they are nickel, but copper cored. If they were copper, there would be no market for iridiums (as copper is alot more conductive), copper itself couldnt handle the temp's in a combustion chamber.

  • 4 weeks later...

Ive just gone through reading the whole thread at the moment i have bcpre6e at 0.8 running 14 psi with spitfires no missing now im wanting to change plugs before my tune where the car will be running about 18-20psi and what ive gathered is to go with bcpr7e or bkr7e , will these plugs to the job? its for a r33 s2

bkr7es or bcpr7es. Get the std electrode, not the v groove as you can start to have spark break down at higher boost.

Can't say i've ever seen a v groove bcpr skit_31, though for the sake of argument you may want to look at the post above my previous one from a guy who has bought some and stated they have a V, and i have always bought bcpr6/7es's and they have always been standard electrode.

You can argue the vernacular on the copper vs nickel if you want, I'm not particularly fussed either way. When people say copper they are talking about regular old plugs

Edited by badhairdave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Details: Turbo Borg Warner EFR 9180 with 1.05 rear housing Upgraded TurboSmart integrated BOV Sanded and powdercoated compressor cover in gloss black Elbow welded with wiggins clamp Speed Sensor(Not included) (Can include oil drain(heat wrapped + titanium intake pipe with almost new filter for a tad extra). Manifold: 6 Boost RB26/30 twin scroll manifold  e-MAP ports drilled into both scrolls(I was using the TAARKS EMAP KIT) Turbo is in excellent condition. Always used Penrite 15w50 Racing oil(Changed less then 2000ks). Also using the Turbosmart OP regulator and filter. Downpipe: 4inch Stainless steel with VBand inlet and outlet clamps(included) Heat wrapped Dual ports for Dyno/Wideband usage Will throw in free 2.5 inch intercooler pipe(2.5inch From turbo outlet to 3.5 inch intercooler) - Powder coated black. Turbo made 563rwkw on mainline hub dyno at around 24-25psi boost - Pump fuel. Will def make over 600kw on e85. Didn't bother as my e-MAP was through the roof with my setup sitting past the choke line. I have a cnc ported and fully built head on my 3.2. Turbine speed saw max of around 109k rpm. I'm running this on my R32 GTR, with AC, and the original power steering pump. The manifold clears the AC lines, ABS, and everything else. Although I had new AC lines because I just wanted new ones and I heat wrapped them as well. This will make more power on a slightly lower capacity motor with a higher PR. And I have since upgraded to a G45-1500. Have pics and videos if need be.  Absolutely nothing wrong with setup. Turbo is in perfect condition. No shaft play or oil leaks at all. All the work was professionally done. The transient response of this is fkn amazing. I cannot rave more about this turbo. If I wasn't chasing 4 figures, I would have kept it. $5000 NZ. Located: Auckland, New Zealand.    
    • I particularly like the look of the John Player Special team. (Thumbnail isn't different but hit play for the clip)  
    • Such a cool collection of cars back then.  
    • Mystery solved, thanks bro Bit of a strange mix, but i dont mind it, still looks good. 
    • nah no problems with bearings or hubs.  just the water pump leak and my AC death
×
×
  • Create New...