Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think a HKS2530 is going to be waaaay too small for a twincam 30.

Before I decided to built my engine properly (read: when it still had stock rods n stuff), I figured 400rwhp and a rev limit of 6750rpm was going to be pretty safe.

  • Replies 286
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i would but i have these and have been fully recond, matched to mines dump pipes and tomie manifolds,

I have 2860r -5's on mine, so very similar to 2530's. Makes 460rwhp and has great midrange. Also using Mines dumps.

hows the response Matt? i run a single gt3076r and its just too small draggin my big lump of a car around (1730kg worth), the response is awesome but i want more power ! I have been meaning to catch up and see your 30 setup for a few years now, and now ive built one i wouldnt mind seeing the turbo performance using the -5s on a 30.

hows the response Matt? i run a single gt3076r and its just too small draggin my big lump of a car around (1730kg worth), the response is awesome but i want more power ! I have been meaning to catch up and see your 30 setup for a few years now, and now ive built one i wouldnt mind seeing the turbo performance using the -5s on a 30.

Still got your old T04Z lying around Brad? or are you not wanting to make THAT much power?

hows the response Matt? i run a single gt3076r and its just too small draggin my big lump of a car around (1730kg worth), the response is awesome but i want more power ! I have been meaning to catch up and see your 30 setup for a few years now, and now ive built one i wouldnt mind seeing the turbo performance using the -5s on a 30.

You really need to lose 200kg's.. That will fix everything. :mrt:

Yeah the response isn't bad. At a guess, having driven a mate's 26 with GT-SS, I'd say its similar in response to that. Its not like a V8 in terms of throttle response or anything - but its pretty good. You're welcome to come have a look anytime. Will be down at AHG (sorry, RAC now..) at the end of this month if you want to check it out.

right i knew everything was going to smooth in my build, the problem i have is this ,

i have moved the cam tensoiner to above the water pump,

BUT THE LOWER ONE IN STANDARD PLACE IS PROBLEM

When i bolt the idler pully on to the block its at an angle, there seems to be a raised bit causing it, any thoughts on what this raised bit is or can i just grind it down,

some pics

camidler002-1.jpg

camidler004.jpg

camidler001.jpg

Purpleskyline: the problem is thats its a series 1 block, meaning no flat spot for the idler.The lump part is how far out the idler should sit so dont grind it off, you need to make the rest of the area the same height out from the block or the pulley wont be in line with the tensioner, etc.

i welded mine up on my first block but saved hassled and used a s2 block on the second motor. Im sure some sort of packer/plate could be made to let it sit on it flat

Bubba: i have the t04z and thats going on the drift motor for the gtr now (another 26/30) and swapping onto the jun 2.7l when i run that in the gtr. Should be interesting :) i may also throw this gt30 on the 26/30 as well because 400hp in a stripped out rwd 32 will be alot more fun and great response.

the question is to go -5s or not, i want the standard look really so single is abit of a turn off considering its supposed to be daily driver material. I have custom 3' dumps already made to suit for the twins so its a full bolt on affair.

I got too many cars and options for all of them its a struggle to decide when to do what lol :)

i want the standard look really so single is abit of a turn off considering its supposed to be daily driver material. I have custom 3' dumps already made to suit for the twins so its a full bolt on affair.

same reason i stuck with low mount twins, didnt want to attract too much attention

although my personal fav is high mount twins for bling :D

same reason i stuck with low mount twins, didnt want to attract too much attention

although my personal fav is high mount twins for bling :D

Ditto for me, but the biggest issue for me is that I can't get the front Cam Wheel Cover on and have had to cut the supports under the bonnet to get the lid to shut.

Marko - what have you done here? Have you been able to close the bonnet and get the front cover on without chopping the bonnet supports up?

right i knew everything was going to smooth in my build, the problem i have is this ,

i have moved the cam tensoiner to above the water pump,

BUT THE LOWER ONE IN STANDARD PLACE IS PROBLEM

When i bolt the idler pully on to the block its at an angle, there seems to be a raised bit causing it, any thoughts on what this raised bit is or can i just grind it down,

some pics

I have laser cut plates made that bolt in place for the tensioner to bolt up against. You need to cut 10mm off the back of the tensioner centre post, best done in a lathe so it's square.

post-8303-1255086794_thumb.jpg

post-8303-1255086819_thumb.jpg

Ditto for me, but the biggest issue for me is that I can't get the front Cam Wheel Cover on and have had to cut the supports under the bonnet to get the lid to shut.

Marko - what have you done here? Have you been able to close the bonnet and get the front cover on without chopping the bonnet supports up?

i dont run the front cam cover, i like seeing the cam gears.

i did however cut the bonnet to clear inlet cam shaft cover and also the factory 'twin turbo' plumbing pipe...mega tight fit but well worth it :D

lol i gain an extra 200kg (stagea) over a gtr but my bonnet shuts without an issue with covers on and twin turbo pipe on ;) I'd still rather lose 200kg and need less power lol.

I have been thinking about running twin gtrs turbos now instead of -5s, i think they are -10s from memory? I remember someone on here runs them on a 30 setup and wondering what the drivability is like? i want around 500hp at wheels mark on 18-20psi. Im running a freshened bottom end but still stock rods and duratech cast pistons, so still around the 8:1 comp ratio. I dont care if the thing blows to bits i wanna see how long it will last :D My head is stock 26 with no port work and stock cams at the moment which wont help either, but bolt in cams are always a future option.

Edited by unique1
I have been thinking about running twin gtrs turbos now instead of -5s, i think they are -10s from memory? I remember someone on here runs them on a 30 setup and wondering what the drivability is like?

-10s are like gtrs, u are right.

i have -10s on my 26/30 as well as n1gtr and another member but i cant remember his name, power delivery is fantastic with very strong early midrange.

my engine is far from standard though with forged bits, large cams, ported head etc

in terms of drivability, i can say that it feels more responsive and much stronger than my previous setup gtss rb26, top end is chalk and cheese making another 100awkw

Edited by Marko R1

thanks marko i used to run a t04z on a 2.7l in this same car and it wasnt too bad really, went hard as hell from 4k onwards but had a revlimit of 8500rpm so a decent powerband. The 30 is limited to 7k so as long as its going alright around 3700rpm or so onwards i'd be pretty happy.

This 3076 is making 18psi at 2900rpm which is alright but dies in the arse at 5000rpm onwards and is too noisy at low rpm whistling and making jet like noises which i personally dont want. Im sure people cant say a turbo is too responsive but i think it is. What sort of power figures are the -10s making around the 18-20psi mark on most setups?

I realise headwork and cams play a big part but im just wondering whether expecting to get anywhere near 500hp at wheels on a reasonable boost limit is asking a bit much.

I would love to go single (t04z most likely) but cop issues around here have gone to another level with new emission testing etc i dont want the hassle and its all engineered for twins anyway so then it stays all legal to the regular eye :ermm:

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...