Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, I apologise for asking these questions :) But I am curious, so here goes:

How much work would be involved in removing the turbo from an r34 GT-T in order to run N/A? Would it require new ECU, etc etc, or is it as simple as removing the turbo itself? Would there be any difference between doing it in an auto or manual? And of course, once it's out, would it be a big job getting it back in?

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106595-turbo-r34-gt-t-na-conversion/
Share on other sites

P plater trying to circumvent the restrictions in his state? :)

you could just make the wastegate actuator stay open all the time? It'd give you an N/A sorta pressure.

Although I think you just wanna unbolt the whole turbo.

Cheaper and easier to sell car and buy an NA, given current prices.

i don't know that that would get u by legally anyway as i've heard its all about power that the car makes stock. ie it would still be a gtt which would be illegal for u to drive.

Same as if u buy a car that is under the power to weight threshold and mod it it doesn't matter cause they go by factory specs.

Not positive about this but its something to consider.

like funky said, buy an NA, so much less hassle.

yes the power to weight rules are based on car factory weight, so it would still be illegal to drive with the turbocharger removed, failed or broken/mashed open wastegate. having said that you could simply swap the manifolds over and drive in N/A mode. the throttle response will suck due to the different compression and it will lack zest but will certainlty work.

P plater trying to circumvent the restrictions in his state? ;)

Give this man a cookie! Bang on.

Although I think you just wanna unbolt the whole turbo.

That's what I was thinking - but how much would be involved in that?

i don't know that that would get u by legally anyway as i've heard its all about power that the car makes stock. ie it would still be a gtt which would be illegal for u to drive.

Same as if u buy a car that is under the power to weight threshold and mod it it doesn't matter cause they go by factory specs.

Not positive about this but its something to consider.

like funky said, buy an NA, so much less hassle.

Nah, I read on the vicroads website (not sure what jurisdiction you were referring to) that it's not based on stock, if you have any mods you're supposed to have an engineer's certificate showing that it doesn't violate the restrictions.

Reason is, I only have 7 or 8 months left on my P's, and I don't wanna sit here while my current car devalues when I could be getting some skyline action!

Like I said, though, I realise it's probably a stupid idea.

yeah, buy an intermediary shitbox... like an R31 ;) There's currently a fair few R34 compliancers propping up, so in 8 months expect R34 prices to have come down significantly.

If you remove the turbo, wouldnt you be driving a modified vehicle, which is also not allowed?

Hadn't read that one - but I must say that I reckon at least 30% of P-platers are driving cars with at least a modded exhaust. Doesn't necessarily make it allowed, though...

Oh well, guess I'll have to keep my pants on for the time being - I was just hoping it might be as simple as bolt-off and bolt-on. Thanks for the help guys!

couldnt it be posible to have the thing engineer sorta saying it makes X amount of power and weighs X amount therefore under the power to weight laws? You would have to get it OK'ed thru Vicroads or whoever in case you get pulled over too...

A mate owns a VS V8 Exec. He wasnt worried about it because he had a letter saying it was under the power to weight ratio... He got pulled over and the letter was from... Ron Poyser holden :P .... got done for being 2-3kw over :D . the cop wasnt impressed :D

couldnt it be posible to have the thing engineer sorta saying it makes X amount of power and weighs X amount therefore under the power to weight laws? You would have to get it OK'ed thru Vicroads or whoever in case you get pulled over too...

Well that was my idea - I wanted to de-turbo and get an engineering certificate saying it was below the required ratio; from what I read that would be ok. Just wondering if the switch to N/A was a realistic option.

Removing the turbo wont make it legal. And an Engineers does not cover that at all.

Fact of the matter is, the car was Turbo from the factory.

You take it off, your altering the emissions which is illegal.

If your worried about legalities, dont drive it for 8 more months.

Simple as that really.

Engineers does not cover EPA emission laws. Thats a $3000 test.

Hardly worth it and your more than likely to fail.

:D

Removing the turbo wont make it legal. And an Engineers does not cover that at all.

Fact of the matter is, the car was Turbo from the factory.

You take it off, your altering the emissions which is illegal.

If your worried about legalities, dont drive it for 8 more months.

Simple as that really.

Engineers does not cover EPA emission laws. Thats a $3000 test.

Hardly worth it and your more than likely to fail.

:)

Yep, so my initial suspicions were right - stupid idea. Oh well, you never know if you don't ask... Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
    • What do you mean by "seals"? Internal hydraulic seals (ie, is it leaking PS fluid?) or the rack boots that close the rack onto the tie-rods? Because the former is a rebuild, and the latter is trivial that you or any nearby mechanic could do. Dunno about the cowl. Just buy what you think is required and get anything else you find/break afterwards. Wing? Dunno. Don't like R33s enough to pay attention to them. Mirror glass is just glass (on the surface that you want to polish). Go for it.
    • Hello! Long time lurker, been using the forums to address concerns and questions from afar for a while but I've struggled to find some answers so I guess its about time I made an account and formally asked some more knowledgeable people, since finding local skyline owners is hard (and shops that are knowledgeable or trustworthy to work on 'rare' cars are non existent out where im at, as skylines are quite uncommon to find in the wild around here). So the main 3 questions I have, 1: Steering rack has blown seals, well.. they kind of hold but they are not sealed properly anymore and as my R33 is my DD, i cant exactly rip the rack out and send it off or attempt to fix myself. As most refurb ones are around $1,100 or more shipped, and I have other things I need to work on around the car, I was seeking clarification on whether an S15 rack will more or less bolt right in, and whether a common mechanic could do any other required work to get it to fit. I ask, as I've found a supplier than can sell a manufactured as oem one for around 400, if not I'll likely order a used one from Jacks JDM, and take a risk on the seals there. The second question i have is that im replacing the front wiper cowl and have planned to buy 4 new clips and a new center clip but wasnt sure if there were any other clips that would also need to get replaced while I was at it. Given im sure any that are there now will simply break when I remove the old cowl... Last thing would be a fairly straight forward question, i think. If I manage (strong if, finding one has proven to be a pain) to find a R33 GTR spoiler/wing will it require much modification to bolt to a S2 R33 GTST? I've read the bolt patterns dont match but otherwise would bolt in, only options I have found with much luck is China stuff on ebay and carbonetics, which has a nice $650 shipping fee... so if anyone has any pointers where a US chap could locate one that would be great Random side question as well, the mirrors as I understand are mirror glass, and as im planning to polish my windows from water spots and surface scratches, i was hopeful cerium oxide would be fine for them too, as my research points to, but clarification is always nice. Any pointers would be appreciated, and while I have scoured the internet for answers if I missed a prior post somewhere that may answer these directly please point me towards it, as i must have simply missed it. I have seen a post here or there that has mentioned it, but I usually get 50-50 answers, or half answers... I dont have a lot of fab experience or mechanic experience, outside of hydraulic and pneumatic stuff I did in the military and with how hard it is to source stuff in the US, id rather not wing it and hemmoraghe money lol. Thanks guys! Sorry for the monumental first post haha
    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
×
×
  • Create New...