Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It will be near impossible to remove it completely. I rented a place before with a really stuffed up driveway. Everytime I drove up the driveway, my inside wheel would spin. After about 8 months, there was a pretty thick tyre track on the ground.

We tried petrol, kero, turps, everything. We tried scrubbing it with the chemicals mentioned above. We tried applying the above chemicals, then lighting them on fire. We tried using a gas cylinder as a flamer to try and burn it off.

While all these made it better, it was still quick noticeable.

Just paint over it and be done with it.

yeah ive had the same problem at a place i rented ages ago. i found using a wire brush and a heap of washing powder (nappy san or similar). Have ya tried a pressue washer/gurney, or HCL over the marks, if that doesnt work then ur probally screwed. ;)

god. i read you post and i PMSL ;)

anyhoo citroclean is agressive as. it removes polish off the floor so it should make a dent in it at least. try a few application of it to remove it. ie put it on and attack with a stiff brush, wait a little then put more on and attack it again.

anyone tried CLR?

if all else fails buy some grey paint lol

Your local auto parts supplier should have a range of concrete cleaning products.

I used one a while ago, very caustic stuff, did a good job of removing oil stains, but I don't know how it would go with rubber. (I guess essentially they're the same compound?)

Hose the area, dump the powder on, scrub it, let it sit a bit, then hose it off.

But if you're going to use anything like that, suit up well.. it burned little pitted holes into my leather work boots.

I used one a while ago, very caustic stuff, did a good job of removing oil stains, but I don't know how it would go with rubber. (I guess essentially they're the same compound?)

Theoretically yeah, they're both hydrocarbons. Which means they should both react (to a certain extent) to other hydrocarbons, especially volatile liquid ones (kerosene or petroleum solvents).

I still pity the fool that shits in his own backyard.

I still pity the fool that shits in his own backyard.

God invented rental properties so that people could shit in their own backyard, then move along to the next place when the shit can is full :D

Be mindful with whatever you're using that it's possible that anything that would dissolve the rubber by making it softer is likely to sink into the concrete (especially if it's really porous).

Obviously if whatever you're using eats all of it away that's fine, but sometimes chemicals tend to do a half assed job.

alternatively... soak your tyres in diesel, then proceed to drive up and down the driveway evenly.

then give the landlord a bill for treating the driveway with waterproofing silicone.

i used to work at Golden Circle, and they got this stuff that'll burn the skin clean off your hands...

wen u squeeze the peel of an orange u get this acidic juice... they process the stuff into wat Golden Circle call "citrus oil"

if you can find that, u got no worries

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...