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Looking at km's is for old people and people who are buying/selling cars that are 3 years old which have nothing wrong with them (so you look at the k's to make the assessment).

The reality is while a 100,000km engine won't be as good as a 1000km engine, a a 50,000km engine could be worse than a 100,000km engine just by the way it's been looked after.

You should get a compression/leak down test - then you'll know for sure.

100,000 is really nothing so long as its been looked after. Make sure all belts tensioners etc have been changed though.

Thanks.

A couple of questions: where can I do the compression testing for the car? How is the whole process done/how much?

Regarding the change of the timing belt (every 100,000 KMs) do I just ask if he has done it and if he has, ask him to show me the receipt etc?

Sorry for newbie questions... I never bought a car before.

I had to change the idle pully and the tensioner as well. idle pulley was cheap as I used a generic brand but for the tensioner I had to get a genuine nissan one which was about 100 or so from memory. I also changed the water pump too as it makes sense since everything is out at the time. A genuine 1 from nissan was about $150.

Plus all fluids as well it can be a little dearer than that just on parts etc.

The car im looking at has done over 100,000 KM and the owner said that he has not changed the timing belt... I know you gotta change it after 100K, but how much is it?

Make him change it before you purchase it or bargin him down as its due to be done. Timing Belts are usually cahnged on a time period or 100,000 depends what comes first.

I had to change the idle pully and the tensioner as well. idle pulley was cheap as I used a generic brand but for the tensioner I had to get a genuine nissan one which was about 100 or so from memory. I also changed the water pump too as it makes sense since everything is out at the time. A genuine 1 from nissan was about $150.

Plus all fluids as well it can be a little dearer than that just on parts etc.

Make him change it before you purchase it or bargin him down as its due to be done. Timing Belts are usually cahnged on a time period or 100,000 depends what comes first.

Yeah good call. But I may as well put aside a grand or two just on the service type fixes for the car...

meh kms dont matter *looks at speedo in my car sees330 000 then crys*

no seriously when you buy a jap import they have almost always been wound back (and dont go and say no my 1989 r32 has genuinly only done 32000kms). if you buy it go and do a full service on it, that is change all fluids (should be done any way as you dont know how the car was treated) and all belts!

i would be more worried about panel damage/dodgy repairs from previous crashes than kms on a car

at the end of the day if you like the car buy it if not there is plenty of fish in the sea

meh kms dont matter *looks at speedo in my car sees330 000 then crys*

no seriously when you buy a jap import they have almost always been wound back (and dont go and say no my 1989 r32 has genuinly only done 32000kms). if you buy it go and do a full service on it, that is change all fluids (should be done any way as you dont know how the car was treated) and all belts!

i would be more worried about panel damage/dodgy repairs from previous crashes than kms on a car

at the end of the day if you like the car buy it if not there is plenty of fish in the sea

Good post.

meh kms dont matter *looks at speedo in my car sees330 000 then crys*

no seriously when you buy a jap import they have almost always been wound back (and dont go and say no my 1989 r32 has genuinly only done 32000kms). if you buy it go and do a full service on it, that is change all fluids (should be done any way as you dont know how the car was treated) and all belts!

i would be more worried about panel damage/dodgy repairs from previous crashes than kms on a car

at the end of the day if you like the car buy it if not there is plenty of fish in the sea

Or you have official log books documenting the service history some people are lucky enough with it. My friend bought a 32 GTR with documeted k's so they do exist just hard to come buy cars with genuine k's

Mine had 140,000-odd km on it when I picked it up, and it still goes really strong! I think it's more the way they were driven than the odometer reading.

And theres NO way to tell how they were driven. Aftermarket parts are normally a good start though :P

i agree with everyone. stuff the ks, dont worry bout that s@#t. if your serious about buyin it, have a decent inspection done on it. compression tests can be done 2 ways. (from what i know. i could be wrong) an electronic 1 and a proper 1 where they will test each cylinder sererately. dunno about the price though sorry.

a good inspection from RACV is round $215 to $300. cheaper if u r a member or know somebody that is a member of RACV.

any mechanic can do compression tests.

make sure u find out if the belts have been replaced. they should be done every 100,000ks. there is usually a sticker in the engine bay somewhere stating that they have been changed. if not, change them just to be on the safe side.

My 32gtr is still running on the original belts and its at 144,000ks. (changin them tuesday)

always a good idea to change stuff like diff oil gear box etc. so if u wanna look at buyin this car, think how much extra its gonna cost u to get a complete service ture etc. its not cheap. your would be cheaper then mine thou! :D

i agree with everyone. stuff the ks, dont worry bout that s@#t. if your serious about buyin it, have a decent inspection done on it. compression tests can be done 2 ways. (from what i know. i could be wrong) an electronic 1 and a proper 1 where they will test each cylinder sererately. dunno about the price though sorry.

a good inspection from RACV is round $215 to $300. cheaper if u r a member or know somebody that is a member of RACV.

any mechanic can do compression tests.

make sure u find out if the belts have been replaced. they should be done every 100,000ks. there is usually a sticker in the engine bay somewhere stating that they have been changed. if not, change them just to be on the safe side.

My 32gtr is still running on the original belts and its at 144,000ks. (changin them tuesday)

always a good idea to change stuff like diff oil gear box etc. so if u wanna look at buyin this car, think how much extra its gonna cost u to get a complete service ture etc. its not cheap. your would be cheaper then mine thou! :D

I think what u mean by the electronic one is also known as a cylinder balance test. Where as the car sits at an idle the tester will systematically shut down a cylinder at at time and then measure the drop in RPM. Quick n clean way to get a general idea on how things are in there.

I think what u mean by the electronic one is also known as a cylinder balance test. Where as the car sits at an idle the tester will systematically shut down a cylinder at at time and then measure the drop in RPM. Quick n clean way to get a general idea on how things are in there.

Yep thats the one. If the cylinder does not drop any RPM then its f**ked.

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