Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone has recommendations for places to get some machining done, either in Sydney or Wollongong. I need to get the surfaces machined on my exhaust manifolds and the tongue removed on these Greddy/Trust split front/dumps....

Speaking of which, those of you who have used the Greddy/Trust extension pipes with turbos that already have a exhaust/wastegate split, how much did you have taken off?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107755-machine-shop-recommendations/
Share on other sites

lol

I had this thought when looking at the 34 N1s next to some seperated dumps. as your SS have the same exhaust housing as the 34 N1s with the integrated seperator I would take it all off.

lol

I had this thought when looking at the 34 N1s next to some seperated dumps. as your SS have the same exhaust housing as the 34 N1s with the integrated seperator I would take it all off.

Yes, I was thinking just to have the tongue machined flat. However, looking at the exhaust housing on the HKS's, the split finishes about 5mm from the top. I was just wondering (out loud) if its worth leaving a mm or two of the tongue sticking out of the front pipes for a closer fit. Obvious issue is that the metal is going to expand when its (very) hot...

yes, i thought about that too, but i think it's fine (and safer) to leave that little gap.

Yup, again, agreed, but thought I would throw it out there in case some wisen old sage knew better. I wonder how disruptive to flow having that gap will be? It interesting to note that there is a gap of about 1-2cm in the divider at one end on the exhaust housing to allow gasses to move from the exhaust wheel side to the wastegate side.

SW20-GT: Thanks tosh, I will call them tomorrow.

If anyone has any other recommendations, fire away.

Depends on the turbos you have. If you have Hks GTSS's then just machine the lot out, thats what i did . I must warn you they are a bastard to fit on .... and you cant fit the turbo brackets on them either .

Depends on the turbos you have. If you have Hks GTSS's then just machine the lot out, thats what i did . I must warn you they are a bastard to fit on .... and you cant fit the turbo brackets on them either .

Yup, they are GT-SSs. I assume you mean have the tongue machined off the dump/front as opposed to machining out the exhaust cover.

I'd be interested to hear anything else you have to say about installing the GT-SSs (I was going to post a question about it anyway). By turbo brackets, I assume you mean the turbo support braces/brackets? Do the foul on something, or just not fit period? Any solutions/recommendations (or any other thoughts)?

Thanks :rolleyes:

Yup, they are GT-SSs. I assume you mean have the tongue machined off the dump/front as opposed to machining out the exhaust cover.

I'd be interested to hear anything else you have to say about installing the GT-SSs (I was going to post a question about it anyway). By turbo brackets, I assume you mean the turbo support braces/brackets? Do the foul on something, or just not fit period? Any solutions/recommendations (or any other thoughts)?

Thanks :P

I assume you have a 32 gtr. If you are going to fit them on the car i dont know how hard it is but it wont be easy . I have fitted turbos many times on a gtr with engine in the car but never thses bastard dumps ( they are a bastard let me tell you ) . I fitted them on a 34 gtr but with engine off the car and with gtss turbos all i did was machine off the tongue of the dumps flat then bolted them on the turbos . When i tried to assemble the engine the o2 censor ( rear dump) was in the way of the coolant and vacium tubes so i had to mod the tubes to fit them on !! Depending on where your rear dump o2 bung is you may have to do the same too .

If you have a good look at your dumps you will see there is no place to bolt the turbo support brackets and unless you go to a lot of trouble to make some different bracket you cant bolt them on .

The best solution ? Sell them and use HKS dumps , they are a direct bolt on job and eveything fits on .

The other thing you will find is :The rear dump ( that bastard again ) will be touching your air cond discharge hose, if you leave it on it will melt it in about 5 minutes so make sure you remove it and replace it with a copper tube ( a bastard of a job on the car after you find out it touches ) so do it while the turbos are off the car and you have plenty room there .

The only advantage with these dumps, the front pipes are very easy to fit on !!

If you need to know anything else feel free to p.m.

Have you talked to Nath about the machining? He can help you out, he has everything in house

No, it never crossed my mind he did this sort of thing in house? Thanks for the tip. I'll get on to all the recommended places on Monday; got distracted today :D

  • 1 month later...
I assume you have a 32 gtr. If you are going to fit them on the car i dont know how hard it is but it wont be easy . I have fitted turbos many times on a gtr with engine in the car but never thses bastard dumps ( they are a bastard let me tell you ) . I fitted them on a 34 gtr but with engine off the car and with gtss turbos all i did was machine off the tongue of the dumps flat then bolted them on the turbos . When i tried to assemble the engine the o2 censor ( rear dump) was in the way of the coolant and vacium tubes so i had to mod the tubes to fit them on !! Depending on where your rear dump o2 bung is you may have to do the same too .

If you have a good look at your dumps you will see there is no place to bolt the turbo support brackets and unless you go to a lot of trouble to make some different bracket you cant bolt them on .

The best solution ? Sell them and use HKS dumps , they are a direct bolt on job and eveything fits on .

The other thing you will find is :The rear dump ( that bastard again ) will be touching your air cond discharge hose, if you leave it on it will melt it in about 5 minutes so make sure you remove it and replace it with a copper tube ( a bastard of a job on the car after you find out it touches ) so do it while the turbos are off the car and you have plenty room there .

The only advantage with these dumps, the front pipes are very easy to fit on !!

If you need to know anything else feel free to p.m.

Just for those who are searching for info on the above, I have posted a reply here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=2124191

APM in Albion Park seem to do some pretty great work.

In case you didn't see in the post I linked to above, thanks for the recommendation to Oak Flats Muffler Men. 4PM on the day the Queen's birthday and they got the job done a treat :O

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...