spark plugs

[R33-JET]

ok time to change my plugs

wanna go with ngk coppers

for r33 gtst

running a bit of boost (1.4bar) with bigger turbo and apexi power fc etc

wat heat rating do i need?

wat mm gap??

wat model no. of anyone knows?

and if possible a quick run down of how to get to the spark plugs to change them

thanks

[blind_elk]

To remove spark plugs:

Step 1 remove engine:p

seriously,

1. remove inlet pipe from throttle body

2a. remove PCV hose between rockers.

2. remove cover plate (between rocker covers)

3. Unplug coil packs

4. Remove bolts holding coilpack frames in position.

5. Lift coilpacks up off sparkplugs.

6. Find you have the wrong spark plug socket, put it all back together, go get the right socket (smallish one), come home, pull it all apart again.

7. remove sparkplugs

I would start with (NGK) heat range 6, gapped down to 0.9mm. Since you're using coppers - dirt cheap - you can afford to have a couple of sets, so you could try a set of 7s later.

Not sure of the (NGK) part number, but its been mentioned numerous times in various posts - have a search.

[predator]

Yeah, its a bitch to check/change. I didn't realise until i did it myself.. pull half of the hoses and crap off the top.. The inlet pipe sucks the most..so many tubes comes off it. Eventually though you'll get to the bits you need..

If you are running 1.4bar apparently you need smaller gap, maybe around 0.7mm - mine is 0.8bar and have NGK BCPR6ES (coppers) set at 0.85mm and seems to do ok.

btw: check the maintenance forum for spark plug stuff.

[Steve]

R33-JET

I believe the rule of thumb is one heat range cooler for every 100-150 additional hp.

I also use BCPR6ES gapped at 0.8mm, and have just over 200rwkw. If you are running alot more hp (which wouldn't surprise me with 1.4 bar) perhaps go BCPR7ES

Steve

[GTR King]

Try some of these plugs. Will do 100000km no plug gaps to set and more horsepower and fuel ecconomy. About $20 - $30 each but well worth it.

What autos seem to do best with Halo?

Most Japanese and European makes of cars respond almost immediately to the Halo plug burn speed. They think this is due to the ignition control system logic, which we are told is primarily a Mitsubishi design in these types of automobiles. Chryslers have a fast learn computer which also seems to raplidly perform well.

http://www.haloplug.com

[blind_elk]

A trick when dealing with spark plugs - once you've loosened the plug with a regular socket, use a piece of 3/8" hose to remove / insert the plugs. The hose fits neatly over the ceramic of the plug.

[predator]

...or you can just get a socket that comes with the rubber fitter that grips nicely over the end, allowing you to pull it out easily.

you probably need an extender too because they are inset fairly low.. with the right tools its easy one.

[Gester]

Originally posted by GTR King

Try some of these plugs. Will do 100000km no plug gaps to set and more horsepower and fuel ecconomy. About $20 - $30 each but well worth it.

What autos seem to do best with Halo?  

Most Japanese and European makes of cars respond almost immediately to the Halo plug burn speed. They think this is due to the ignition control system logic, which we are told is primarily a Mitsubishi design in these types of automobiles. Chryslers have a fast learn computer which also seems to raplidly perform well.  

http://www.haloplug.com

Where can you get these from? You reckon they're better then NGK's? Do you acutually get better economy outa them?

Whats the right Skyline model number for these? Skyline isn't on the website

[blind_elk]

Originally posted by predator666

...or you can just get a socket that comes with the rubber fitter that grips nicely over the end, allowing you to pull it out easily.  

The problem comes after you put the plug back in - often, the extension pulls out of the socket because the rubber grabs too well on the plug.

[Guest INASNT]

jet, when r u planning on getting your new turbo and running 1.4 bar boost??

for the time being run some NGK 0.8mm gapped platinium ones.

[predator]

The problem comes after you put the plug back in - often, the extension pulls out of the socket because the rubber grabs too well on the plug.

hehe, been there done that..remove the rubber thingo when u go to screw 'em back.

[blind_elk]

Then there's nothing to hold the plug in the socket

[Steve]

This may be a little left field, but why not use your fingures to put the plugs in - what am I missing????

[predator]

Steve: you're a genius. the human hand tool !

I think it was hard to get the fingers in there to align it properly because how they are inset down in that little well - maybe i'm just unco.

For those that have never done it before: to gap them, buy a feeler guage from kmart, repco or wherver (about $10).. find the right pull out thingo (e.g. 0.8mm), or two that give you what you want. Slide them under the tip. Wrap a hammer in an old cloth (or use a rubber mallet) gently tap it down till the tip is sitting flat on the set guage. .. Slide feeler guage out..repeat x 6

anyway, i think this thread is getting redutant.. i am sure people can work it out.

[Guest INASNT]

or just buy pregapped 0.8 mm plugs!

[Xeron]

ALWAYS regap pre-gapped sparked plugs.

God knows how many times that packet has been dropped.

[ScarifieR]

why not just buy a good quality socketset like i have

and u get a rubber/magnetised sparkplug socket

put the sparkplug in the socket and attach the extender bar without the wrench attached drop it into the hole

go anticlockwise till ya feel a click

then go clockwise and all is good

[rev210]

plugs are designed to start the combustion process and basically survive it.

Plugs don't by themselves add any power at all if you have selected the right heat range and gap. So go buy the copper units and save yourself some money. In the examples provided by some 'revolutionary plug' companies they spend very little time trying to find the perfect conventional plug to suit the application they are testing.

BTW the feeler guage is not to be subjected to bashing or crushing of any kind otherwise it ends up slightly thinner each time you do it unless you have two guages to use one for abuse and one to measure acurrately. Instead the feeler guage should move with very slight resistance between the electrodes (so it just fits in). The electrode can be pushed closed on a flat surface by hand (holding the plug) a little at a time.

[Anquetil]

and if possible a quick run down of how to get to the spark plugs to change them

thanks

Theres a 'How to' with pic's in the FAQ.