Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry should have made it a bit clearer.....

The readings were taken when that mark was reached, so from the 1/4 mark until the E light came on was 96kms.

I can only do ~30kms on my light, I have done it before, and conked out :devil:

And while we're on it... putting car in neutral while coasting isn't a good idea, idling requires more fuel than an overrun situation (I doubt SK could turn off his injectors while idling right?). And also, good work!

I've been shocked at the pitiful range on the fuel light the Stagea has compared to other japs, caught me out when I first bought it.

Oh, and to really measure fuel consumption accurately, you wanna full tank to brim, drive til about empty with tripometer recording, refill to brim, and however many litres that fill required vs the K's you've just done is your economy. But then maybe you were just looking specifically for max k's outta one tank, hence you should have run it dry for us!!! ahahaha

  • Replies 216
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I did an 'economy run' recently in my stock S2 stagea, keeping off boost where possible and I got 12.8L/100km, measured using the method in the above post. I like to reset the km's every time i fuel up so I can work out my fuel economy.

Driving how I normally do I get between 13.5 and 14L/100km (city driving, mostly peak hour traffic) and the above figure included a fair bit of driving outside peak hours so its a little bit optimistic.

Not that much difference between the two figures though which I thought was great because it means my usual driving style isn't costing that much extra in fuel. I'm not a leadfoot but I do like to boost a bit when accelerating.

  • 2 weeks later...

After a brief country drive, followed by some city driving, I have managed to achieve best figures of 450km's. I'm pretty happy with that, cos thats a huge increase from my previous best of 320ks! More to come with the DFA ?!

280kms & bout 1/3 of a tank left. Mixture of freeway & stop start traffic

Since SAFC2 was tuned, it runs so much better, and drinks a hell of a lot less fuel.

Little Johnny should put a rebate on SAFC2's! The little bugger...

new to the stagea clan with a stocker rs4.

im getting the same as i use to get with my 32, 400km's per tank (about 50-55L's to fill up).

this is all city driving to work in the centre of perth, 25km's each way so i dont think its too bad for the power it has and how much it friggin weighs :(

Shaun

  • 2 weeks later...

well guys just a quick update. Almost finished a think almost E (the warning light had not lit). Ive done 410km in one tank. I filled up with mobil synergy 8000 (98 octane). I think its pretty good i guess. &0% HWY driving though. The rest is in city with a few hammering 2 or 3 times i guess.

has anyone tried mobil boost 98[ethanol mix],is it safe.as stated i get 420-450 town 500+hwy bp ultimate.something to watch when warning light on dont park passenger side down on sloping gutter etc,1st time ever mine wouldnt start. leetom

Do a search for ethonol on here. The issue is not the RON rating, it is what the ethonol will do to your fuel system, including your fuel pump amongst other things.

But I know there are 5 or 6 really long threads with all sorts of opinions on this subject from some knowledgeable people.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

took my baby up to lithgo today up the great windy wet foggy bells line of rd and had a ball stuck to the rd like poo poo on a blanket i did 200 klm on 22liters of fuel and im real happy with that

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...