Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have an issue with the whine, mainly around 70-80km/h in 4th gear (clutch in or out).

I had some crunching with 1st gear, and sometimes 3rd, went Redline lightweight shockproof (previously MT-90) and its smoother, no crunches except occasionally 1st gear, but the whine remains.

It might be a little quieter but I'm not sure, need to give it some more time.

I've had the car for 1-2years with whine, but its not driven often, no issues so far...(S3 R33 GTR gearbox)

my box whines a little in all gears, but i figured a box that can take this much punishment is aloud to have a little noise.

just open the windows or turn up te stereo and its gone, cheap fix :P

on a serious note though, G70 if you ahvent tryed it, and some redline, or equiv nice oil

Edited by boiracer

Putting in a different oil to cover noise is a bad solution IMO...I do recommend a recondition (replacing bearings and seals) for your gearbox because the problem will just come back down the track (and it only gets worse). The bigger issue though, is if you leave it too long without replacing the bearings they can collapse and cause more damage to the rest of the gear cluster...meaning you will be up for a rebuild / go searching for a junky second hand box as opposed to just a recondition.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...