Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by skyzerr33

that supra sure does look line a gtst hehe

the n/a is quite respectable but the gtst should take it.

Oh yeah if I squint hard enouogh I can see the similarity :)

My girlfriend described it as a Frog from Star Wars (GT-Wing) :D

Hmm looks as though the N/A Supra will be an easy target for those Commodores now :P

Originally posted by GTAAH

Questionable move there dude, NA Supras are a high 14 car if you're lucky. Worst thing is you can maybe screw another 10-15hp out of them easily and thats it.

Jash

Yeah, I know .. I didn't buy an N/A car and expect it to be fast. I just thought that there are too may Skylines in the street and that the Supra looks a lot nicer, my opinion only of sourse :P

As long as it's as fast as my girlfriend's 2000 Prelude, I'm happy, because the only person I'll probably race against would be her :)

Still though. high 14 for a na car is awesome

what does ur average N/A v8 pull? with litle to no tuning as this car has had.

Jash- could u posibly approximate what a TT MkIV with an auto should run down the qtr. (stock) i just want to see if my dad is driving bad or the limits of the car are about 14.11

thanx - Psiker

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Very nice looking Supra. I think the NA Supras have 178kw, which is not bad, and a mid 14 1/4 time on street tyres. They have the looks but will not be as quick as the GTS-t.  

See'ya:burnout:

I think this is a "chick magnet" rather than a Commodore killer :P

Anyway, here is the specs

1996 Toyota Supra SZ-R

3.0L non-turbo

6 speed manual automatic

Volk TE37 alloy wheels

aftermarket body kit

GT rear wing (original included also)

aftermarket exhaust & air filter

aftermarket suspension

Bride drivers seat

Recaro passengr seat

steering wheel

CD player & subwoofer

Does anyone know if you can tell the difference between a TT Supra and an N/A, just by looking at the exterior ??

Bye

Richard.

Originally posted by Nizmo

poser hahah

nah nice wheels mate - but arent u going to get bored of an N/A - know i would :P

Definately a poser car :) !!!

But as for being bored I ws actually getting bored with the R33 GTST :D .. I bought the Supra because of the way it looks and the style, which in my opinion is much nicer than the GTST.

Anyway, probably keep this for 2 years and then get an NSX. Now that's a car that no one woul call boring !!! ;)

Bye

Richard.

Originally posted by simplelogik

I think this is a "chick magnet" rather than a Commodore killer :P  

Anyway, here is the specs  

1996 Toyota Supra SZ-R

3.0L non-turbo

6 speed manual automatic

Volk TE37 alloy wheels

aftermarket body kit

GT rear wing (original included also)

aftermarket exhaust & air filter

aftermarket suspension

Bride drivers seat

Recaro passengr seat

steering wheel

CD player & subwoofer

Does anyone know if you can tell the difference between a TT Supra and an N/A, just by looking at the exterior ??

Bye

Richard.

i saw that car on the PMS (prestige motorsport) mailing list..

ooooh triptronic - always wanted triptronic haha they're fun - i know its not the dinky-di manual but still wish my baby was triptronic.

Poser car - well i guess i'll see you doing laps around northo on a sat night with the other posers then haha :P

Love your work mate definately a horny looking car.

Originally posted by Adrian_perth

man n/a?

wheres the fun in that?

nice car

but i reckon the main reason for owning a jap import

is the fun you get out of it by moding it?

correct me if i'm wrong!

adrian :P

Hehe I don't waste money on making my car faster, because even my 1st car, a 79 Mazda 323 is capable of going faster than the legal speed limit :) ..

Anyway, the only "mods" that I spend money on these days is my house, and after spending 10s of thousand of dollars, the bloody thing is still no quicker than when I first bought it :D ..

Originally posted by simplelogik

Anyway, the only "mods" that I spend money on these days  is my house, and after spending 10s of thousand of dollars, the bloody thing is still no quicker than when I first bought it :P ..

hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...