Jump to content
SAU Community

Dry Sump Setups Thread :)

CruiseLiner

By CruiseLiner,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BlownNBoosted Collaborator

BlownNBoosted

Posted
Posted

CruiseLiner: Go the the Hi-Octance sump I was a bit worried about it until I dropped in and had a good look at it, you get:

Enlarged Sump

Tomei Baffle Kit

Windage tray

Pefect Welding

No clearance issues

If you add it up the Tomei sump will cost you similar money once it is all said and done.

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Steve Maitland from Maitland performance fabricators is the man for your job as his done many and his local and his work is proven in Wa rally and race cars.

hey steve thats who made the current one i got and its great welding, and qaulity, just a bad design with only one side enlarged and trap doored plus the pickup has the cup thing around it too.

ill post a pic up tommorow when i get 5 min

WetGTR Proficient

WetGTR

Posted
Posted

I'm using a Performance Metalcraft sump 9L. It was recommended by SK and is enlarged on both left, right and front with no clearance issues. I also have the tomei restrictor in the head, a -10 return line from the back of the head to the sump. I am also using the Nismo Oil Pump but previously I was using the JUN oil pump. Both pumps are good.

The sump setup is shown on there website at:

http://www.performancemetalcraft.com.au

Dry sumps sounds like a great thing to do but most GTR's that race here only really use a tomei baffle kit, Jap brand oil pump, restrictor in the head and an extra 1 litre of oil all on a standard sump and no oil issues at all.

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

How about fitting an oil accumulator such as an acusump ?

That would offer some additional protection, without any disadvantages at a fraction of the cost of a full dry sump system. It will also keep oil pressure up to the turbos for a short time after the ignition is turned off.

I have never used one, but it may be worth thinking about.

GTR 94 Mentor

GTR 94

Posted
Posted
anyone know some good designs? ive seen the hi octane ones, any other brands worth looking at? i dont want the trust one as its wayyyy too low for my liking.

thanks again everyone, awesome info :)

Brad

who said the trust one is 2 low heres a pic see the diff and the bottom of the sump arnt that far apart.

post-1964-1145232807.jpg

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

I tested my dry sump set up on a rb20 recently. Luckily the engine was free cuase its no longer with us, the drive setup was incorrect and it ran out of oil pressure, haha these things happen thats why they needed to be tested.

Dry sump on RB= experience!!!

To do the job you not only need the backing of good machinist for parts but dry sump experts, plus an rb expert. Its all anout knowledge to get the best results. If I were you I would talk to as many people as possible that have experience with dry sumps on chevs etc, then talk to people that know about the rb series oil system, then talk to people who have actually done it and ask there opinions!!! I would only recommend it for hardcore racing cars that dont see the street, but thats personal opinion!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 2 years later!
    • The Bogan
      braided lines for the turbos

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • r32-25t
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By r32-25t · Posted

      The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Kinkstaah
      braided lines for the turbos

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...