Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

i have an 89 model r32 gts-t. im after a turbo upgrade, but i dont know what to buy. i can afford a total of roughly $2000 (tax return, yay!) for parts (manifold, turbo, gaskets etc.).

ive resaerched this topic on the forums but couldnt find a conclusive desision. although i think that Garret turbos seem to be popular and of quality. but correct me if im worng.

im after a SOLID 200 or more rwkw (the more the merrier) with minimal lag.

ive been told that if your gunna get a turbo upgrade you need to upgrade you BOV? is this true?

what has everyone else done?.. other mods that will be done at the same time are

300*600*76 fmic

2.5 inch exhaust

e-manage piggy back computer

greddy rs bov (if nesasary)

steel head gasket

yeah.

cheers all.

and pretty please dont lecture me about "doing a search"cos i did a detailed search with no luck. sorry if i missed somthing. :)

thanks heaps in advance.

James.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113939-r32-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

the advantage is cost, you can sell the emagange and its not needed and get a remap instead. the remap will be better and youll have less junk in the wiring loom, less stuff to go wrong or fail or cause other issues

im after a SOLID 200 or more rwkw (the more the merrier) with minimal lag.

ON an RB20... you cant have that.

Go with the HKS 2530 IMO.

Throw the Emanage in the bin and use a re-map as stated

get a full 3" exhaust

all this is going to cost more than $2000 though dude, nothing is ever cheap like that

lol... The GT3540R won't make boost until 6500rpm. :P

That turbo is way way too big.

If you want new I'd probably look at the GT2871 48trim Comp & paired to the .64 turbine housing.

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod414.htm

Push 18psi or so though it.. Should be a nice streetable turbo on the rb20. :P

cheers for the input all. i spoke to someone who sells garret turbo's and they recomended a gt3540R.

whats everyone else's opinion on that?

ta. James.

Your kidding right? :P

Two pointers for you in relation to that

1) Tell that person they are a retard.

2) Dont ever talk to them again

Take the advice in this thread. Horsepowerinabox item looks quite nice aswell. Very well suited with the .64

im with ash + others

why have you asked for help and then chosen to cleary ignore it?

i think you need to get a few things straight

what do u want out of the car?

quick street? quick drag?

do you want to just make max power or average power?

how much money do you have?

I've had a good look at the compressor maps.

If you want to start pushing more than 19-20psi through the 48trim 71mm Comp wheel consider stepping up to the slightly laggier 52trim that will be fine for up to around 24psi and a few more horses.

I personally would stay away from the 56trim comp wheel.

But if you can pick up a good s/h hksgt2530 thats obviously a tried and proven responsive turbo. For a little more power on pump fuel the gt2871 48 - 52trim is worth while. :P

firstly: paul, i was not ignoring yours and others advice. please dont take it like that, i was simply exploring other options.

secondly: a daily driver that ill be taking to drag events.

all in all i intend to spend 3 grand on the turbo (tops, like if i had to pay for manifold. gaskets. ditting kit or whatever.)

thirdly: i apologise if my ignorance is frustrating yall more experienced people.

cheers. james

With your budget:

3inch turbo back exhaust, get a knock off front pipe, new 3inch cat and second hand jap 3" cat back ~850-900 installed, or consider a full x force system for about the same money.

Intercooler and piping kit off Nissan Silvia sponsors for about 450, install yourself. If you can do your own pipework you will save some money there.

Second hand r33 turbo, install yourself 350-400 plus $50 for gaskets.

Leaves you with about 200.

Buy an adjustable actuator with it.

The car will run reasonably well assuming your fuel pump is ok, if not another 200 to replace it.

Find another 3-400 and have a chat with dr drift about a remap of the stock ecu.

Forget about the emange, forget about the head gasket, forget about the garrett turbos, forget about the bov. you cant afford them with your budget.

This is based on your initial 2k budget. It'll cosy about 2.5k though.

With the 3k you could look at s/h highflow turbos

Edited by BHDave

You sure about that GT2871R turbo selection cubes? They're not exactly super responsive responsive on the SR20 so I would imagine the RB20 would be a bit worse. Maybe the 71mm 48 trim might be alright but... its definitely less responsive than having a 60mm compressor.

I would say GT28RS if you couldnt get your hands on a GT2530! But you'll need a T3-T28 flange adapter IIRC.

alright then. so its decided.

A GT2871R with .64 housing anf 48 trim.

thanks guys youve been really helpful. :rofl:

but what will need to be done (besides bigger cooler and exhaust) to fit it? ie: what parts will i need to buy with it? does it have a T3 flange thingo?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...