Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can understand the need for an accurate inlet temp sensor. After my upgrade I was horified to see that my inlet temps (showing on the PFC) were consistantly around 25C higher than ambient (50C on a 25C day). What I did notice, however, is that the IC outlet was cold/ambient to touch and that the inlet temperature readings on the PFC hardly varied.

In reality I suspect that what I'm really measuring is the temperature of the plenum wall (nicely heated by the engine radiant heat) rather than the intercooled air passing throuh it.

Where do you place the aftermarket inlet temp probe?

Between the plenumn and the pipe that feeds from the inner guard. I set it up so the tip is in the centre of the pipe and does not come into contact with the pipe wall or plenumn wall. Ive always had the thought that the std probe is affected by heat soak.

  • Replies 179
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
OK people.....its time to guess what power its going to make....

only changes are HKS 2530's > HKS GT-RS and a HKS ignition amplifier.

it made 443 AWKW previous on this same dyno.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say.... it will be MORE than 443AWKW! :thumbsup:

..actually I'll be very interested to hear how much difference there is in lag Paul. I know this won't be too much of an issue for you since you're primarily drag racing.

I am having a RB26/30 built and have been told the 2530's might be a bit small, and to go for the GT-RS. In fact, they say that the 2530's would "limit me" to about 600hp. But with 443awkw, it sounds like you are proving the 2530's can go more. A lot more.. wouldn't that be around 700 flywheel hp or more?

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say.... it will be MORE than 443AWKW! :rofl:

..actually I'll be very interested to hear how much difference there is in lag Paul. I know this won't be too much of an issue for you since you're primarily drag racing.

I am having a RB26/30 built and have been told the 2530's might be a bit small, and to go for the GT-RS. In fact, they say that the 2530's would "limit me" to about 600hp. But with 443awkw, it sounds like you are proving the 2530's can go more. A lot more.. wouldn't that be around 700 flywheel hp or more?

Hmm my guess is 485 awkw :unsure:

so how's it going??? :rofl: hopefully ~500kw+

the JD's going down nicely thanks :P

unfortunately no news yet.......(no news is always good news with CRD). It's hard to be so far away. I wish I was there. I hope nothing goes wrong. I feel like I'm waiting for a baby to be born. :D

STACE

I think ONE of the users logged on right now might win the guessing comp!

Was that me? If so :D

After the 443 4wkw with 2530s' I am not so sure I can guess it.

The race brew makes the numbers somewhat unpredictable.

The raw maths say 550 4wkw.

So I will throw that in as my best guess.

Good luck guys, we have a Friday drinks rule

One JD for every 100 horsepower

So you better get started.

:P cheers :rofl:

PS; the boys get all excited when we stick a blown 7 litre on the dyno, it means plenty of beers for them

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...