Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

My GTS25T had the SK Bilstein kit fitted all round in 2005 , not long before I bought it , and the rear Billys were changed out today . One was perfect where the other had leaked it's gas and oil though still had a perfect shaft .

I wouldn't fit anything else to a road Skyline even if it was going to do the odd track day . I think some people reach for the bling coil overs without realising that direct replacement dampers and springs can work real well without the dramas of spherical tops etc .

Your calls though the SK spec Bilsteins springs etc can still be bought new I believe . Those rears had an extra top circlip groove machined upwards because I can't stand real low road cars , mine are set two up from the original std Bilstein groove and can go up one more if necessary . I started to get a few tyre rub issues when I went to 245/45/17s after running 235/45/17s and when Gary measured my car it was a tad front low compared to how it should be . Originally this was done because people didn't like the front height with the front circlips where they were supposed to be and these cars settle about 8mm in the first 1000 od km . You were supposed to come back to have the front raised one groove but my cars previous owner must not have done this . I aim to raise the front 16mm (two circlip grooves) and if it can be done in time have a couple of extra higher ones machined in just in case .

I believe a road Skyline can be too low and the suspension geometry can suffer because of it , for example if control arms angle upwards to the hubs the roll camber change is probably wrong and roll resistance not as it could be .

Will find out in time , cheers Adrian .

  • 2 years later...

Great thread ruined by off topic questions cluttering it up and people not reading information already posted. This is exactly how posters with experience to share get pissed off and leave, STF up and listen dream boats.

  • 8 years later...

Bringing an old thread back to life

Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock? 

I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124? 

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY

341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no. 

thanks all 

 

KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability.

Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....?

As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?

Last year I got a set of MCA street coilovers for my turbo Forester after my son hitting a concrete gutter/wall on a small bridge causing the whole drivers side suspension to get bent because the rain just made the car slide out

I love them, I think they were $2400.

even had a hiccup of have the wrong hub configuration (my fault) so got onto MCA and they sent the correct shock ends overnight parts from QLD, for free!  I was very impressed with their customer service and quality of the product

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...