Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OUCH!

and oi Chris.. You might provide the cable ties, but remember I'm the one that does the tieing! :(

oh, and I'm with thomas RB26!

This is a VERY complex discussion that can go on for ages, and will surely piss the rest of the whores off if we discuss it in this thread, but in a nutshell, all things being equal, a normal stroke RB26 is better for big power on street fuel than using an RB30 crank for the following reasons-

*The piston speed is lower at the same revs

*There is less side thrust exerted on the bores by the pistons, due to less conrod angular/side motion (less heat/friction)

*The Piston spends more time in the dwell state at TDC and BDC

*The Bore/Stroke ratio is much better (over-square engines like to rev harder)

Which helps, briefly, with the following

*Keeps frictional losses down (engine lasts longer, makes power more easily)

*Helps secondary balance

*Optimises manifold air speed at high revs

And blahdy, blahdy, blah. [/end rant]

Nissan could have made the engine 3L if they wanted to, but they didn't.

P.s 2JZ's and RB30's both have around 6800rpm limits from the factory, which is the same piston speed as an RB26 at 8000rpm.

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ouch... how much damage to the head (esp the combustion chamber on 6)?

Pretty respectable effort, haven't seen something that smashed for a long time!

Edit - that quote from R32R at the top of the page is wrong, very very wrong. I think he's got things crossed up.

Ouch... how much damage to the head (esp the combustion chamber on 6)?

Pretty respectable effort, haven't seen something that smashed for a long time!

Edit - that quote from R32R at the top of the page is wrong, very very wrong. I think he's got things crossed up.

That's what I thought too but I'm glad somebody more knowledgable than me said it first.

But but but, if RB30 bottom ends are so good, then why can't I get a crate engine with an RB30 bottom end shipped from Japan? (innocent look)

No one will do it for me! They all say something along the lines of, "Are you stupid?" (innocent look)

(...stupid for asking them to build it, not stupid for asking them to build one and send it)

Seriously though, I'd like to hear someone that is all for RB30's tell me why they're better. I have no idea.

..uhm..so as not to hijack mona's thread, this is for your benefit too moonie :huh::(

i've heard RB20DE
It will be sweet when it has the CA18DE in there, should be an animal,ooops I've said too much.........

Personally, I'd be going for an L16 and turbo, blowing through a decent sized carbie of some sort - 45mm Weber, Dellorto or SU, side-draught of course... :huh:

im sure u can cable tie it back together.. no biggy
Bit of gaffa tape and she'll be all good again..

Ahhh, cable ties and gaffa/electrical tape - the drift/drag/circuit racer's and mechanic's best friend! :(

Seriously though, that is some heavy duty damage. :rofl: Mona, you should keep the parts and display them somehow for memories. Ahhh, the good times!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...