Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anynone taken the time to strip down their RB20DET gearbox when it has failed. Im tryign to get an idea of what component/s fail. Im reluctant to throw an RB25 box in my car due to the expense and the weight when my RB20 bos has done a pretty good job holding the power im making

So if i can get an idea of what parts fail, and whether they can be economincally strengthened then i would like ot beef up the lighter RB20 box.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115102-rb20det-gearboxes/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cubes smashed 3rd gear :) loaded it in 3rd gear....hes got pics somehwere too...

Weight isnt really an issue. I can easily lift a rb20 box by myself, and can still lift a rb25box. It is heavier, but not anything u would notice while driving id think....wind in another 2psi and u wont :)

i'm wondering the same thing, as my gearbox seems to be dealing with my power okay (only 170rwkw, and i don't think i'll be chasing more) however it is whining like a biatch, and if its worthwhile, i might just get it rebuilt (anyone know a rough price for a gearbox rebuild?)

Frankly, i don't see the point in doing an RB25 box conversion, when the RB20 box seems to be handling the power okay, and for the same money as the conversion with the 2nd hand rb25 box, i could have a brand new RB20 box?

thoughts?

Already told you about the weight issue Roy, start exercising :ban: that and you can change your drive shaft to a 1 peice, that will shave some weight.

But bearings, syncros. The quotes I got, with the 'warrenty' they offered, I couldnt justify the money of fixing it. I do plan on going an RB30 at some stage tho, so that did infulence my decision.

Do it once and do it properly.

So its the gear themselves that let go? A friend is a transmission engineer with Ion and he is a boffin to boot....so was talking to him and he suggested its not rocklet science to beef up the box, secret is findign what the weak part is...im thinking close ratio 5 spd box whislt we are in there :P

LOL...if i had the money id buy the spare gearbox a friend has, close ratio 5 spd Hollinger with magnesium bellhousing to bolt straight up to the almighty RB20 :mad:

Ok the latest is I need to get my hands on a cheap 2nd hand gearbox, be it running or broken.

The plan is to strip down the RB20 box and do the following

- replace synchros if needed

- micro bead blast the gears, concentrating around the root of the gears

- Phospate coat the gearset.

If the money doesnt add up too fast we will be:

- replacing the 2nd driven gear, depending on how much it costs to manufacture one form EN36 bar stock. Im guessing way too much.

- Will also look at enduction hardening the gear surfaces.

Fingers crossed it will be a tough gearbox that weighs a lot less then the RB25 box

My friend advises me this is the way to go about reliably toughening the gears….whether that’s the main mode of failure in the RB20 gearbox im still not too sure…So if ppl have broken gearboxes and are in Melbourne or Sydney, then id be keen to get my hands on them. Not that i know what im looking at but my friend will

And are you hopng or you know that PPG will be makign something for them shortly? Because that would be ideal, a close ratio box that weighs no more then std and is strong...id be happy to pay the money

I almost shredded mine.

The whine that the box gave out was amazing.

Although i think its the added torque of the RB25 at the time (and 330rwkw) that kinda pushed it to the edge

Mine was syncro's as far as i could tell as it didnt want to go into gear in the upper RPM when it came time to replace it

Hey Roy & others,

There's a topic come up on Performance Forums lately where one of the guys has come across a RB20 box with some sort of custom close ratio gearset in it.

Basically they are trying to figure out who might have done the work and whether it's worth the effort of trying to sell it off.

Have a look:

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh...php?p=839536283

Thats interesting...and seriously, if a PPG RB20 gearset is going to be available in before end of August then i will grab one, as im really what Dutton will do to the std 180,00km gearbox

This would be dreamy, and great for the peaky RB20...

http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/images/content/SCDOG.wmv

i have blown 11 of these. (fs5w71c)

each one failed on the gear teath. all due to abuse and mashing through the gears.

one other problem,apart from the shiet synchros is the small bearingfor the countershaft.

if heavily loaded the bearing race cage can let go. this leads to a knocking sound at idle. with the noise getting quieter as you go up through the gears.

good quality oil can prevent this from happening.

the main problem with these gearboxes is they get "crunched" through the gears. this shock loads the gears and causes them to crack then fail.

the counter shaft has less durable metal for the gear facings. its the counter shaft that is always the culprit.

so a 25 or fs5r30a box upgrade is highly recomended as the metal used is of higher quality.

not to mension much bigger gears and synchro rings. also the bearings are much bigger.

so basicly it would be much less stressed.

i have blown 11 of these. (fs5w71c)

each one failed on the gear teath. all due to abuse and mashing through the gears.

one other problem,apart from the shiet synchros is the small bearingfor the countershaft.

if heavily loaded the bearing race cage can let go. this leads to a knocking sound at idle. with the noise getting quieter as you go up through the gears.

good quality oil can prevent this from happening.

the main problem with these gearboxes is they get "crunched" through the gears. this shock loads the gears and causes them to crack then fail.

the counter shaft has less durable metal for the gear facings. its the counter shaft that is always the culprit.

so a 25 or fs5r30a box upgrade is highly recomended as the metal used is of higher quality.

not to mension much bigger gears and synchro rings. also the bearings are much bigger.

so basicly it would be much less stressed.

Thanks for that...With regards to crucnching gears...im pretty easy on gearboxes so thats probably the reason why it still lives.

So based in what you have posted, micro bead blast the gears will help with the strength (or at least relieve the weak/stressed point) . And good quality oil (i use Castrol Castrol Syntrax 75W/90 ) combined with the phosphate coating may help the bearing race cage problem you mentioned

Hi Roy

Just to add, the gearbox on the 31 sounded fine when I first got the car with about 150rwkw.

It still sounded and drove the same all the way to 235rwkw untill I did a windout in third gear on a rare occasion that it didnt break traction and then it instantly had a very loud whine.

This whine lasted for over a year and also when power upped to 285rwkw. I decided to drive up to PI to see the group A racers and cruised all the way up at the speed limit and as soon as I slowed down to 60 as I came to the island a loud,grinding rattling noise started. It grings in neutral and if I press the clutch it goes away which seems like a bearing. I also never was an aggressive shifter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...