Jump to content
SAU Community

Catch Can Install Options (with Pics)

itbmils

By itbmils,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

itbmils Proficient

itbmils

Posted
Posted

OK peeps

I've come up with 3 options for installing / plumbing my new oil catch can (separator) into my R32 GTR. There may be other ways – and I'm still open to suggestions.

The first image is how things look now. I have the breathers off the rocker boxes joined, with one side plumbed off to the plenum side and the other side plumed off into one of the turbo side AFM pipes.

Option 1: I leave the rocker box breathers joined, block off the plenum side, use a t-peace to join the secondary breathers into one side of the catch can, and then return back to the turbo side. This is still a closed system, and I assume it uses the vacuum pressure generated by the turbos to suck air/oil from the rocker boxes (through the can) and back into the engine.

Option 2: is very similar to option 1, only without the t-peace – and I rely on the standard join in the breathers to deliver the gas/oil from the left hand rocker cover over to the catch can

Option 3: I modify the catch can (or get another one) to vent to atmosphere, block off both the plenum and the turbo side and simply plumb the rocker breathers into the catch can. This is no longer a closed system, and I've herd stories of guys blowing the filter off their catch can, and ending up with oil residue all over the engine bay (oil fire !!). I can't see how this setup would manage to FORCE any of the oil/air mixture thru the can - but it seems to be a popular way of installing one of these.

Also - will blocking off the plenum / turbo breathers have an impact on tune (mixtures) etc

Talk to me guys – what is the best / safest way to do this

I plan to use braided lines throughout – and I will take pics along the way – so I can share this with anyone else wanting to do the same

post-11736-1146782574.jpgpost-11736-1146782594.jpgpost-11736-1146782618.jpgpost-11736-1146782632.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116451-catch-can-install-options-with-pics/
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

dont believe they have a pcv valve on those.

and they all look fine. only thing is the last option is illegal.

T piece option will be more expensive, but with braided lines etc i dont think you care :D

or you can replace the fitting on the rocker to be L shaped only.. run them direct to the oil/air separator, then a 3rd line to the inlet.

  • 2 months later...
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
SK did a very good explanation of this, unfortunately the pics have gone, but the text should still help.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...68174&st=23

My Pictures are still there

:teehee: cheers :P

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

mate, your rocker covers aint sucking anything in if they aren't connected to the turbo inlet or the plenum. where is the vacuum going to come from???

Gary, of those 3 options listed which would you reccomend for a street GTR? light tune.

Mr. Oizo Grand Master

Mr. Oizo

Posted
Posted
mate, your rocker covers aint sucking anything in if they aren't connected to the turbo inlet or the plenum. where is the vacuum going to come from???

Gary, of those 3 options listed which would you reccomend for a street GTR? light tune.

reverse blow by? lol

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
mate, your rocker covers aint sucking anything in if they aren't connected to the turbo inlet or the plenum. where is the vacuum going to come from???

Gary, of those 3 options listed which would you reccomend for a street GTR? light tune.

Option 3, I don't care if it's illegal, it's technically the best method.

:teehee: cheers :P

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted

ill take a pic of my one, option 3 style.

It had a chinese catch can on it, the inlet hole was littereally 3mm, pressurizing the crank case, was pushing some oil out the turbos on hard acceleration as you back off, i removed the catch can and let the pipes come stright out for a test run, no smoke nothing. So i constructed a free flowing catch can system works well.

I bought the filter for 30-40 (k and N)

sheet of alloy for 20 (could make 4 catch cans easy)

1m pipe of alloy for the filter attacment (8 bucks)

then 50 to get it all tigged up then i polished it my self

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr · Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...