Jump to content
SAU Community

Should I Purchase This R32..

Rekin

By Rekin,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr. Oizo Grand Master

Mr. Oizo

Posted
Posted
Pics as requested :P

Could not find any scratches or dints on the car (excluding the bonnet) due to new spray.

That white R32 is real nice, might consider it :D

Aftermarket steering wheel will be replaced with stock and the big boost gauge will be removed and a small one will be placed near the drink i think.

- Patrick

Honestly, I'd pass on that one

Justin O Community Regular

Justin O

Posted
Posted
People on carsales are dreamers, you can get a R33 series 2 in good condition for $15k, an R32 should cost around 10k

When I imported my 32 it ended up costing me $15000 on road.

Expensive, nah one of the cleanest 32's I’ve seen, no dints, no scratches the interior was mint, it was stock but I wanted to do my own mods.

Yeah the average 32 goes for around the 10k mark. But most of the time you pay for what you get.

In fact the 32 has held its price, 33's are getting cheaper every day.

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
Dr Drift :D take it to a proper mechanic, cost less unless you go to a Performance workshop (you wouldnt need to).

A test drive and inspection is a MUST.

Good luck mate.

Dr Drift no good? care to elaborate?

But i agree, 13k and its ok provided that there in no accident damage to suspension etc...

Justin O Community Regular

Justin O

Posted
Posted

Dude please dont get me wrong.

I'm not saying Dr Drift isn’t any good; his chips sure seem to work well.

Sam isn't a qualified mechanic, he's a computer programer.

But id take it to a qualified mechanic, there are quite a few good workshops around that area.

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Seller states the car comes with kyb shocks and springs but is unsure.

The ride did feel really bumpy, but have not been in a clean r32 to benchmark againts.

I'm actually considering that white R32, although $15,000 is a bit too expensive at the moment.

Would also need to include insurance ($2500~)

So it would add up to $18,000 to get it on the road...

Even if he drops it by $1000, thats still a hefty price.

I could probably get the black R32 down to 10-11 if i pay in cash or half loan the white r32.

Decisions hrm..

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
Dude please dont get me wrong.

I'm not saying Dr Drift isn’t any good; his chips sure seem to work well.

Sam isn't a qualified mechanic, he's a computer programer.

But id take it to a qualified mechanic, there are quite a few good workshops around that area.

maybe, but he knows what problems to look for when it comes to thrashed skylines/slivias.

most mechanics even if they are good may miss something such as a problem that is model specific.

sammus Grand Master

sammus

Posted
Posted

mate you need to check out every r32 you can even if you don't think you're really interested in the car. you say you're a noob well go look and ride in 20 gtst's and get aquanted with how they should look, feel and work.

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
For me, i'm lucky that i've found my 1st car that i truly am feeling good about, an 1993 R32 GTS-t Type-M (pictures attached). 99% stock with an auction grade of 4.5 for $12,000 complianced and RWC, then i've got warranty(optional), stamp duty, registration and insurance to put ontop of that, but i'm happy with what i've found - It's a risk i am willing to take with importing.

that one sure looks clean inside! original steering wheel looks mint :O

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

no offence mate, but you've asked for our opinions and we've basically all told you to pass.

however, you seem to have your heart set on this car.

I personally wouldn't buy a car that hasn't be sprayed properly - I hate 2 colour resprays where the boot/engine/door jams haven't been done. All that says is cheap respray to me.

Alot of these guys have seen alot of 32s, so trust them.

Don't let emotion cloud your judgement... if you stand back you'll see that this is a pretty ratty 32 that may take 3-4K to get to good condition.

foznice Veteran

foznice

Posted
Posted

I would definatly not buy that.. at least not for that price.

Did anyone notice that those 1st two photo's have been photoshopped with that filter?? I forget what it's called.

As Sam said, keep looking at 32's so you get a feel for the average condition of paint, the common problems, and the average market value ect ect..

for the price they're asking, I think you could get a much much cleaner example

As ronin said, don't buy this car because you have your hear set on it.. stop imagining yourself driving it, or having it in your driveway.

good luck though, whatever you decide to do

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted

Why the bad word on Dr Drift?

He knows nissans better than anyone I know. A normal mechanic will not know the specific things to look for!

He would tell you straight everything that needs doing and he's a good bloke on top of that. Wouldn't rip you off.

Dr Drift :thumbsup: take it to a proper mechanic, cost less unless you go to a Performance workshop (you wouldnt need to).
Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks all for your input.

After reading the opinions and looking back on the inspections. I'd rather wait until a better one shows up.

What i was originally after was a 1993 gun metal r32, but thought the black one was a good deal.

In the meantime, i will postpone the searching until the semester hols in which i will have my license.

Regards

- Patrick

Mr. Oizo Grand Master

Mr. Oizo

Posted
Posted
Why the bad word on Dr Drift?

He knows nissans better than anyone I know. A normal mechanic will not know the specific things to look for!

He would tell you straight everything that needs doing and he's a good bloke on top of that. Wouldn't rip you off.

what do you mean 'normal mechanic'

sam isnt a mechanic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
×
×
  • Create New...