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Yeah 100% the actuator mate, dropped the exhaust and took the car for a spin...sounded tough but boost still faded away.

Putting a bellmouth dump on tomorrow in the hope to equalize the back pressure accross the wastegate flap and stop it being blown open by the low pressure that's currently sitting behind it (the split dump is split too well)

Possibly but I doubt that is your problem.

Did you say the turbo only made 15psi with no vac hose attached to the actuator?

Have you taken a boost reading from straight after the turbo and then another one from before the t/body, then another one from after the t/body?

If not - do that.

Skyline is basiclly sold now... :thumbsup:

Got a car yard to put an offer on it, so now I have a week to try and sell it for more however I dont think it will as everyone are tyre kickers these days...

Im asking a grand more that the car yard has offered, and its gonna cost a grand to put it through road worthys and mod plates...

So im not holding my breath...

Thats a pretty good price from a car yard.

In this market i would take it. Like you said a lot of tyre kickers about.

Skyline is basiclly sold now... ;)

don't take this the wrong way, but all that to achieve 300rwkw and not to really use it?

like you said, there's a valid reason: owning too many cars and hardly driving it.

and i'm speaking generally here; but doesn't anyone plan things anymore?

why i want the skyline?

what i want to do with the skyline?

how am i going to achieve the above?

just seems a shame that's all. alot of hard work and no enjoyment.

Possibly but I doubt that is your problem.

Did you say the turbo only made 15psi with no vac hose attached to the actuator?

Have you taken a boost reading from straight after the turbo and then another one from before the t/body, then another one from after the t/body?

If not - do that.

lol yes, and the fact you can watch the actuator open while on the dyno is a bit of a giveaway. I'm not your typical SAU n00b Dan ;)

howly dooley you boys get active at night!

ok this is the best I can do for you:

Had the car for 6 months, purchased from dodgey import yard. 90,000kms on clock Possibly original timing belt - this worries me!

Fully stock trim apart from turbo back exhaust and apexi pod filter

Car has always run like shit when cold cofs and splutters when you give it a bit of gas has been known to stall from time to time

when accelerating it will sometimes misfire and backfire

Has started to use lots of fuel recently

On sat night we went for a spin, driving the car hard once it was warmed up was going nice

Launched the car from the lights apparently did not feel it had as much go as usual - kept pushing anyway

Drove at normal speed for a couple of km

Decelerated to a set of lights

Engine cut out

Refused to start

Would not turn over

basically just: kik kik kik kik kik pop pop kik kik kik kik pop kik kik kik - pit of smoke coming from exhauste - not puffing out more like smoldering out

RACQ Checked:

Fuel pump - good

Alternator - good

Dizzy, Leads - Good (Changed leads last service)

Oil good was changed Saturday morn with Royal Purple and KnN Oil Filter

Apexi Air Filter was cleaned and re-oiled on Saturday morning - he is woried he put too much oil back in as there is a little dripple of oil in the bottom of the induction pipe - should this be cause for concern?

Found the plugs to be soaked in fuel after trying to start it so engine is getting fuel - mabye too much?

feels like maybe a computer issue or another mate reckons he snapped his timing belt - this idea was thrown in at around 10pm last night and has not been checked yet, will keep you posted

is it normal problem for gtir to run like shit when cold?

thats the best I could do as its not my car but I have a decent understanding on how its been playing up!

Thanks again markimak!

or another mate reckons he snapped his timing belt - this idea was thrown in at around 10pm last night and has not been checked yet, will keep you posted

if the timing belt snapped, the motor would be completely shagged, i.e valves contacting pistons = valves through tops of pistons :glare:

GTiR use timing chains. and ther will be no crank over at all if the valves are hitting the piston.. i might come have a look wher u located..?

the timing chain is alot stronger (opinionated) than T belts. and dont need changing.

check how much oil u have. perhaps ur mechanic forgot to tighten the sump plug and ur oil leaked out.

sounds like its cranking over. so im guessing its gonna be no spark. they check ur ignitor.? get a compression test

all cars run shit when cold. its just they run a different map and have the auto choke on. u shouldnt drive a car hard untill it reaches operating temps.

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