Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a car that I am pretty sure is from sau somewhere... Needs the spoiler in my opinion.

r32_gtr_purple.jpg

Needs the GTR spoiler back on for sure!

Unless this car had the Nismo side skirts and front bar, you could get away with no spoiler also GTS-T R32 rear pods on the side of the rear bar will help too.

Needs new wheels too!

BBS / Meshies looks shit IMO.

new pics of mine that were taken on saturday night

edit1a.jpg

edit3p.jpg

edit4f.jpg

edit5r.jpg

Farken awesome Nick!

White car black wheels FTW!

Very nice pics and obviously car! I saw that for sale, great buy.

Painted my front lip back to original black (was scratched badly) and the TE37s (were also gutter rashed badly) what is a similar colour to the R35 GTR rims.

5520_123252546494_522886494_3064839_964663_n.jpg

5520_123252551494_522886494_3064840_3766102_n.jpg

5520_123253801494_522886494_3064852_2854984_n.jpg

5520_123252556494_522886494_3064841_7481990_n.jpg

5520_123252576494_522886494_3064843_978048_n.jpg

5520_123253796494_522886494_3064851_6504214_n.jpg

Cheers, had been wanting a V-SpecII for a while but was having trouble convincing the wife that $32k on a 15 year old car was a good idea, we were both rapt with this thing...

After spending yesterday getting shots of the car, I got home to letter to say my plates were at the RTA ready to be picked up, all those photos with those yellow plates looking bloody awful, and my personalised ones were only 3k away! :rofl:

Painted my front lip back to original black (was scratched badly) and the TE37s (were also gutter rashed badly) what is a similar colour to the R35 GTR rims.

those rims look badass man

love the stealth look :laugh:

Hey guys..i'm new here. Picked this up a couple months ago (i've come over to nissans after a long line of toyotas :laugh: )

welcome :P

nice tidy looking example - no wonder u converted :bunny:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...