Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries, The Nissan part numbers are Front: 41120-12U25 Rear: 44120-12U25 with one kit doing each end if anyone needs them in the future. This should be the seal kit for 32,33,34, 350Z, V35 etc.

Rebuild kit includes pistions, internal seals, dust boots and bleerer caps, right?

If so, we can try to figure out part numbers for separate parts if we want to just replace say torn dust boots.

P/N's I found so far:

bleeder screws #05.2812.13

bleeder rubber caps #05.1502.20 or #105.1502.20

The above two can be found combined. E.g. I have a nice box with two M10x1 bleeder screws and two caps lying in front of me. #98.8249.20.

They are also known and nissan p/n 41129-12U25, audi p/n 8A0 615 273,renault p/n 77 01 209 424

Pressure seals, we need four 38mm, four 40mm and four 44mm seals per car, or 2 x 38mm and 2 x 44mm per one front caliper and 2 x 40mm per one rear

Some catalogues say that the p/n's below are for 8 seals, no idea why would brembo offer them in 8-piece packs. If the info is incorrect, please post here, 'cause 8-packs are ridiculously priced. Other catalogs say these p/n's are per single seal, and pricing is therefore much more reasonable.

"Standard" pressure seals

38mm seal #105.5955.57

40mm seal #105.5955.58

44mm seal #105.5955.60

"Anti-knockback" presure seals - NFI what's the difference betw. these and the ones above

38mm seal #105.7224.45

40mm seal #105.7224.46

44mm seal #105.7224.48

Dust boots

38mm #20.4872.45

40mm #20.4872.46

44mm #20.4872.48

P/N's for pistons themselves I'm trying to find out currently

True, but when I was rebuilding mine, one caliper had two torn dust boots, and road dirt, pad dust, residual brake fluid, water and whatever else got in there formed nasty layer of crap over the sides of two pistons that prevented pistons from entering all the way back into their bores, and it was very hard to get rid of without making a scratch on anodised surface.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive done 350z brembos onto r34 hubs and i can say with 100% certainty that the rears WILL NOT bolt on. The mounting holes are completely different. Its much easier to source gtr brembos. As for the fronts they are as mentioned previously the calipers on 350z run M14 bolts and will bolt up to an r34 but you will need to drill your mounting holes to run them on earliers models. Also as mentioned you CANNOT mix n match calipers and rotors without an adaptor as gtr and 350z calipers run different hub spacing. So in short 350z calipers and rotors = WINNING!!

  • 8 years later...

Just to bring this all back from the dead. Do R33 or R34 front knuckles fit on a Stagea. So I could buy complete front knuckles with discs calumets bearings dust shields and just bolt on or is there differences that make it not work

57 minutes ago, RBW49N said:

Just to bring this all back from the dead. Do R33 or R34 front knuckles fit on a Stagea. So I could buy complete front knuckles with discs calumets bearings dust shields and just bolt on or is there differences that make it not work

Supposing you are talking about a C34 Stagea then it depends on whether it is a 2wd or awd. In general you just need to bolt on the rotors and calipers. There may be minor adjustments with bolt sizes and pipe fittings but its doable. In the rear you may need to trim the dust shield.

55 minutes ago, RBW49N said:

Yes was talking C34. But was more curious about the complete knuckle as often the complete assemblies are for sale on yahoo that way the dust shield and everything is correct 

Most c34s are awd, most r34s are rwd. That makes them substantially different

6 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Most c34s are awd, most r34s are rwd. That makes them substantially different

I should really put all of the information in my question shouldn’t I. Will R33 /R34 GTR front knuckle complete assemblies ( brakes bearings etc fit onto and AWD  series 2 rs4. I wasn’t sure if the tie rods or ball joints were different 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
×
×
  • Create New...