Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well you fark knuckles! I never had this problem before. but the now it's occaisoinaly started happening. I blame you guys and your thread!

going to try some earthing etc. see how I go.

  • Replies 212
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well you fark knuckles! I never had this problem before. but the now it's occaisoinaly started happening. I blame you guys and your thread!

going to try some earthing etc. see how I go.

it's actually a computer virus I have written for the PFC - that is spread by reading this tread :P

you bastood.

some more info if it helps.

I'm running a BCNR33 RB26 PFC in my BNR32 GTR. It's firmware is version 8.04a (latest firmware) and is not reflashed. It was tuned by PC (using datalogit from memory). running with O2 feedback on (and at least 1 faulty sensor, the other one i'm not 100% if faulty or not).

tune is excellent. car is currently making 270kw atw with 1 bar boost. also running splitfires coils, and NGK copper plugs (BCPR7ES gapped at 0.8mm).

you bastood.

some more info if it helps.

I'm running a BCNR33 RB26 PFC in my BNR32 GTR. It's firmware is version 8.04a (latest firmware) and is not reflashed. It was tuned by PC (using datalogit from memory). running with O2 feedback on (and at least 1 faulty sensor, the other one i'm not 100% if faulty or not).

tune is excellent. car is currently making 270kw atw with 1 bar boost. also running splitfires coils, and NGK copper plugs (BCPR7ES gapped at 0.8mm).

I have my O2 sensors off - also have ~270atw with splitfires and copper plugs

same firmware

I pulled mine apart on sunday to have a look. Mine had a ground wire which was screwed onto the top of the transistor (ignitor pack thingy). the ground wire is connected to somewhere I cant really see as it was wrapped in a cable sheild with some other wires (but I believe its connected to the negative side of the battery. I just cleaned off the rust of the screw and the wire connector and since then i have had no missfires. Before this the missing happened at least once a day sometimes 2 or 3 times. But will have to see if it does it over a few more days.

i have had this problem too, ive located it to a faulty tps switch, it drops out and gives flat spots just on low throttle. very very intermittent.

btw 60 knock is regared as an "event" 20-40 is acceptable i believe. ive never seen more than 40 and only on decel, never on acceleration.

i have had this problem too, ive located it to a faulty tps switch, it drops out and gives flat spots just on low throttle. very very intermittent.

btw 60 knock is regared as an "event" 20-40 is acceptable i believe. ive never seen more than 40 and only on decel, never on acceleration.

so - a new tps ?

Its like a curse., F%$K Y&^...noticed it the last couple of days on low RPM cruising along.

Why did I look for it.?????...could have had the stereo vibrating the car and would have never noticed.

My cover is off ,,,I have a PFC, Splitfire coils and the ignitor pack is not attached to anything.

Some-one please post up a quick fix with some wiring info......I have nowhere to fix it to.

If you don't I will put a Hex on all your cars :ninja::dry::D

OK Then....here is a quick mod. I have completed today to see if it stops the missing.

One fixed point........the other a cable tieing up 2 other points and fixing to another point.

The wire is thick on the second....and no movement at all.

So far tonight had no missing.......infact car is running smoother. :P

If it happens again...I will replace tps.

post-29124-1160561958.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Did a simular thing to my R32 GTR recently. Ran a ground directly from battery negative to transistor module. From transistor module to both rear and front coil pack mounting bolts. Also cleaned paint off mounting pads for transistor module. To date, no missfire. Blooody unreal, all sorted. :sorcerer:

I pulled mine apart on sunday to have a look. Mine had a ground wire which was screwed onto the top of the transistor (ignitor pack thingy). the ground wire is connected to somewhere I cant really see as it was wrapped in a cable sheild with some other wires (but I believe its connected to the negative side of the battery. I just cleaned off the rust of the screw and the wire connector and since then i have had no missfires. Before this the missing happened at least once a day sometimes 2 or 3 times. But will have to see if it does it over a few more days.

Had the same problem with mine. Checked the earth on both the ignitor and the coil packs and found both had loose connectors. Soldered the connector to the wires and misfire has gone. Also problem only occurred once i took the cam cover off.

  • 3 weeks later...

I get this misfire once a month on average. It feels ike the engine just skips a beat, I thought the timing belt was slipping the first time I felt it :)

My recent re-tune brought my knock level right down. At start up it jumps up to 80, but once I reset it and drive, even with a cold engine I rarely see knock over 18 now.

  • 2 months later...
you bastood.

some more info if it helps.

I'm running a BCNR33 RB26 PFC in my BNR32 GTR. It's firmware is version 8.04a (latest firmware) and is not reflashed. It was tuned by PC (using datalogit from memory). running with O2 feedback on (and at least 1 faulty sensor, the other one i'm not 100% if faulty or not).

tune is excellent. car is currently making 270kw atw with 1 bar boost. also running splitfires coils, and NGK copper plugs (BCPR7ES gapped at 0.8mm).

HI THERE. MY R32 GTR HAS THIS DAM APEXI MISFIRE ALSO. WHAT I HAVE NOTICED AFTER HAVING THREE SETS OF O2 SENSORS INSTALED THAT ONE OF THEM WILL ALWAYS SHOW THAT IT READING JUST ABOUT ZERO IF NOT ZERO VOLTS WHEN THE CAR IS WARM OR HOT, FROM DEAD COLD START YOUR CAR AND HAVE A LOOK AT YOUR HAND CONTROLER AND KEEP AN EYE ON THE O2 SENSOR VOLTAGE WITH BOTH OF THEM TURNED ON AND SEE IF THE NUMBER TWO O2 SENSOR STARTS TO LOOSE VOLTAGE AS THE CAR WARMS UP. WITH MINE IT IS ALWAYS THE NUMBER TWO O2 SENSOR ON THE HAND CONTROLER. THE NUMBER TWO O2 SENSOR ITSELF IS IN THE POSITION CLOSEST TO THE FRONT OF THE CAR.

I HAVE ALSO NOTICED THAT THE MISFIRE IS THERE WITH THE O2"S TURNED ON OR OFF. I HAVE HAD MY CAR TUNED BY 4 DIFFERENT TUNERS TO TRY TO GET RID OF THIS MISFIRE AND NO LUCK. CAR RUNS A NICE POWER OF 384.4 HP AT THE WHEELS.SOME SAY THAT THE APEXI IS THE WAY TO GO BUT FOR MOST OF US WITH R32 GTR,S. ALL THE BEST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...