Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well you fark knuckles! I never had this problem before. but the now it's occaisoinaly started happening. I blame you guys and your thread!

going to try some earthing etc. see how I go.

  • Replies 212
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well you fark knuckles! I never had this problem before. but the now it's occaisoinaly started happening. I blame you guys and your thread!

going to try some earthing etc. see how I go.

it's actually a computer virus I have written for the PFC - that is spread by reading this tread :P

you bastood.

some more info if it helps.

I'm running a BCNR33 RB26 PFC in my BNR32 GTR. It's firmware is version 8.04a (latest firmware) and is not reflashed. It was tuned by PC (using datalogit from memory). running with O2 feedback on (and at least 1 faulty sensor, the other one i'm not 100% if faulty or not).

tune is excellent. car is currently making 270kw atw with 1 bar boost. also running splitfires coils, and NGK copper plugs (BCPR7ES gapped at 0.8mm).

you bastood.

some more info if it helps.

I'm running a BCNR33 RB26 PFC in my BNR32 GTR. It's firmware is version 8.04a (latest firmware) and is not reflashed. It was tuned by PC (using datalogit from memory). running with O2 feedback on (and at least 1 faulty sensor, the other one i'm not 100% if faulty or not).

tune is excellent. car is currently making 270kw atw with 1 bar boost. also running splitfires coils, and NGK copper plugs (BCPR7ES gapped at 0.8mm).

I have my O2 sensors off - also have ~270atw with splitfires and copper plugs

same firmware

I pulled mine apart on sunday to have a look. Mine had a ground wire which was screwed onto the top of the transistor (ignitor pack thingy). the ground wire is connected to somewhere I cant really see as it was wrapped in a cable sheild with some other wires (but I believe its connected to the negative side of the battery. I just cleaned off the rust of the screw and the wire connector and since then i have had no missfires. Before this the missing happened at least once a day sometimes 2 or 3 times. But will have to see if it does it over a few more days.

i have had this problem too, ive located it to a faulty tps switch, it drops out and gives flat spots just on low throttle. very very intermittent.

btw 60 knock is regared as an "event" 20-40 is acceptable i believe. ive never seen more than 40 and only on decel, never on acceleration.

i have had this problem too, ive located it to a faulty tps switch, it drops out and gives flat spots just on low throttle. very very intermittent.

btw 60 knock is regared as an "event" 20-40 is acceptable i believe. ive never seen more than 40 and only on decel, never on acceleration.

so - a new tps ?

Its like a curse., F%$K Y&^...noticed it the last couple of days on low RPM cruising along.

Why did I look for it.?????...could have had the stereo vibrating the car and would have never noticed.

My cover is off ,,,I have a PFC, Splitfire coils and the ignitor pack is not attached to anything.

Some-one please post up a quick fix with some wiring info......I have nowhere to fix it to.

If you don't I will put a Hex on all your cars :ninja::dry::D

OK Then....here is a quick mod. I have completed today to see if it stops the missing.

One fixed point........the other a cable tieing up 2 other points and fixing to another point.

The wire is thick on the second....and no movement at all.

So far tonight had no missing.......infact car is running smoother. :P

If it happens again...I will replace tps.

post-29124-1160561958.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Did a simular thing to my R32 GTR recently. Ran a ground directly from battery negative to transistor module. From transistor module to both rear and front coil pack mounting bolts. Also cleaned paint off mounting pads for transistor module. To date, no missfire. Blooody unreal, all sorted. :sorcerer:

I pulled mine apart on sunday to have a look. Mine had a ground wire which was screwed onto the top of the transistor (ignitor pack thingy). the ground wire is connected to somewhere I cant really see as it was wrapped in a cable sheild with some other wires (but I believe its connected to the negative side of the battery. I just cleaned off the rust of the screw and the wire connector and since then i have had no missfires. Before this the missing happened at least once a day sometimes 2 or 3 times. But will have to see if it does it over a few more days.

Had the same problem with mine. Checked the earth on both the ignitor and the coil packs and found both had loose connectors. Soldered the connector to the wires and misfire has gone. Also problem only occurred once i took the cam cover off.

  • 3 weeks later...

I get this misfire once a month on average. It feels ike the engine just skips a beat, I thought the timing belt was slipping the first time I felt it :)

My recent re-tune brought my knock level right down. At start up it jumps up to 80, but once I reset it and drive, even with a cold engine I rarely see knock over 18 now.

  • 2 months later...
you bastood.

some more info if it helps.

I'm running a BCNR33 RB26 PFC in my BNR32 GTR. It's firmware is version 8.04a (latest firmware) and is not reflashed. It was tuned by PC (using datalogit from memory). running with O2 feedback on (and at least 1 faulty sensor, the other one i'm not 100% if faulty or not).

tune is excellent. car is currently making 270kw atw with 1 bar boost. also running splitfires coils, and NGK copper plugs (BCPR7ES gapped at 0.8mm).

HI THERE. MY R32 GTR HAS THIS DAM APEXI MISFIRE ALSO. WHAT I HAVE NOTICED AFTER HAVING THREE SETS OF O2 SENSORS INSTALED THAT ONE OF THEM WILL ALWAYS SHOW THAT IT READING JUST ABOUT ZERO IF NOT ZERO VOLTS WHEN THE CAR IS WARM OR HOT, FROM DEAD COLD START YOUR CAR AND HAVE A LOOK AT YOUR HAND CONTROLER AND KEEP AN EYE ON THE O2 SENSOR VOLTAGE WITH BOTH OF THEM TURNED ON AND SEE IF THE NUMBER TWO O2 SENSOR STARTS TO LOOSE VOLTAGE AS THE CAR WARMS UP. WITH MINE IT IS ALWAYS THE NUMBER TWO O2 SENSOR ON THE HAND CONTROLER. THE NUMBER TWO O2 SENSOR ITSELF IS IN THE POSITION CLOSEST TO THE FRONT OF THE CAR.

I HAVE ALSO NOTICED THAT THE MISFIRE IS THERE WITH THE O2"S TURNED ON OR OFF. I HAVE HAD MY CAR TUNED BY 4 DIFFERENT TUNERS TO TRY TO GET RID OF THIS MISFIRE AND NO LUCK. CAR RUNS A NICE POWER OF 384.4 HP AT THE WHEELS.SOME SAY THAT THE APEXI IS THE WAY TO GO BUT FOR MOST OF US WITH R32 GTR,S. ALL THE BEST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...