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  • 5 months later...
a little more information if it helps anyone with ideas, i run PFC 8.04a and suffer from the hesitation. a little while back i swapped it out with a mate running the exact same version, ran it for a period of maybe 3 - 4 weeks without a hitch. swapped back and the problem came back with it. so it was looking like it was only specific units, however recently his has started getting the problem after a long period of hassel free driving... as mine was second hand when i first received it and his only played up after a while, could it be somethin that comes with age? something breaking down?? has anyone had the problem with a new from the box PFC?

yeah i purchased brand new don't no what model but was bought in 08 off slide. And within half hour of driving small miss under light load every 30 min or so when cruising at 100-110

happy to do street log run if someone wants to bring their r32 over?

im in melbourne / kielor downs with datalogit

Hey guys,i have a 33GTST with ecr33 PFC doing something similar,but under WOT.Whenever i take off in first,rev it to around 7000 change to second,flaten it again its like it starts to rev then loses power for a moment then comes on strong again.Revs clean through all gears,no missing or backfiring at high rpm.Have had Matt Spry at PITS in the car with me with PC hooked up and couldn't figure out what it was.Changed AFM,plugs.checked coilpacks,no difference :banana: .Also when uder minimal load in 2nd an 3rd has a little hesitation at 3000 rpm.Car has slight mods:FMI,fuel pump,hiflow panel filter,12 psi boost from turbosmart boost tee.

MY R33 GTR does the same thing APEX PowerFC for the past 6 months. I will ask RE Customs to do some checks for me with what has been outlined above.

My car cruising at 80km/h or 100km/h Miss fires, intermitent.

  • 1 month later...

hello

there is some programming being done on the background and we need your help

we need a list of your powerfc unit (the part # on the side of the case) and what version string you have

the part # is usually RB26 or BCNR33L or BNR34 etc - the L is Ljetro (afm) and BCNR33D is Djetro (map sensor)

some users may have a PRO verstion too, we would like to see this code. the version string comes from ETC, VERSION

it should look like;

Image_299_small.jpg

2.322 is the PowerFC version (dont give us the FC hand controller version)

please post them up in here like

be sure to include your PFC model and its version string

ie;

RB26 4.08

BCNR33L 8.04A

  • 1 month later...

Damn this is a real common problem, I guess with some standard parts pushing 15 years old somethings gonna happen...

Same problem wit my 94 32GTR, but only had problem since upgraded AFM (rb20 items) coils and injectors...

only noticed in last 2 days...

Had power FC in for over 6 months on standard EVERYTHING and was fine (till turbos blew that is..)

Have to look into the coil/igniter earth.... could possibly be AFM...

hmmm... a real brain strain...

yep, I had power FC in my first 32 GTR for over a year with no problem ever. then one day it started. :dry:

paul, I'll get my info for you over the next few days. always happy to help the cause. :D

Seems my warning light came on this morning, and the car stalled (was in netural rolling towards a red light) that was not good, took the tuner for a run for about 10 min... and not ONE hic-up...

Feels like its only doing in while the car is cold, I'm starting to think the O2 sensor is going berko till the car warms up, drove home and was fine after about 5 min (though light didn't come on at all)...

Leaving it with the tuner next week so he can check the cold start and let him feel for it for himself...

the 02 sensor wouldnt make the car stall like that and bring on the engine check light

its likely the throttle body sensor went out of range - this would bring on the engine check light, and make the car stall

any sensor that goes out of range under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK will turn on the engine check light

when its on, view ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and look for any sensor with a black highlight, this is the sensor that is out of range, or broken etc

look for THRO or TPS when the problem occurs if its your throttle body

ah ok, well the tuner will have to check all that as I dont have the hand controller.

Just came back from training where the car sat for 3.5hrs, started it up and the light came on about 10 sec after i started, it stalled again and when i re-started warning light came back for a few seconds then went off...

Drove home (10min) had a little hic-up once but other than that fine... hic-up is always on light load...

Starting to get to me now...

ah ok, well the tuner will have to check all that as I dont have the hand controller.

Just came back from training where the car sat for 3.5hrs, started it up and the light came on about 10 sec after i started, it stalled again and when i re-started warning light came back for a few seconds then went off...

Drove home (10min) had a little hic-up once but other than that fine... hic-up is always on light load...

Starting to get to me now...

I read somewhere, an apexi pfc wont work properly if boost control function is turned on and you don't have the optional apexi pfc boost controler hooked up, this function needs to be turned off when not being used. hope this helps
I read somewhere, an apexi pfc wont work properly if boost control function is turned on and you don't have the optional apexi pfc boost controler hooked up, this function needs to be turned off when not being used. hope this helps

I'll pass that on to the tuner, make sure that its checked out, cheers mate...

it works fine if you have the boost control kit enabled (its on by default) and its not connected, the engine check light stays on all the time, forever until you turn it off

so you would notice this, as the engine check light would be on, forever

Can you be more detailed please, "REPLACED ALL EARTH LEADS".

Which leads?

Had the same drama with mine just before I went in for a rebuild.

The earthing off the resistor pack (my anology) which the coil pack leads hook up to (small box next to fire wall) had a very weak earth if you could say that. So i made my own strap using jay car parts ($2) and added a secondary earthing which fixed the problem.

  • 2 months later...

OK, well I'm not going to say I fixed the missfire but !!!.

After reading all the blogs etc about bad earths on this and that car and been chasing the misfire in my gtr I was also convinced the problem was bad earth.

NOW I HAVE TO WARN ALL UP FRONT IF YOU CAN'T SOLDER AND OR DON'T REALY KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING WHEN SOLDERING DON'T ATTEMPT THIS .COMPUTER/LOOMS ARE TO EXPENSIVE TO STUFF UP..

I uncovered the wiring near computer to find a bunch of wires that are crimped ( I assume at the factory) so they got the soldering treatment.

CAR RUNNING A LOT BETTER, MISSFIRE STILL THERE, BUT FAR LESS DRAMATIC.

SO WHEN YOUR ON A GOOD THING.

the loom that feeds the ignition coils got the treatment also,

and touch wood the missfire seems to be gone altogether..

CAR NOW RUNNING EVEN BETTER STILL, it still has that big cam stumble at idle, but nowhere near as bad as before.

I recon there is alot more of the factory crimps burried in the loom that could be fixed also.

This is a breif description of the fix as I will not be held responsible for someone frying their computer/loom etc.

Edited by nobby

this would seem logical and explain the intermitteancy of the misfiring

maybe its only when the power is turned up and the accuracyt of the spark is critical

ie with stock ecu and stock power its fine

turn the wick up and change ECU and its critical

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