Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gooday all, lookin at getting my bum back in a Nissan and need a wagon. Love the looks of the Stagea and I think I want one.

My concerns are fuel consumption on such a heavy vehicle and figured a RWD would be a little more gentle on the wallet.

I'm past the boy racer stage so don't need heaps of power just wat a solid and comfy car to drag my old butt about.

I been through the threads on consumption and figures like 15, 16, 17 and over ltr/100kl make me shake a bit.

Any ideas chaps ?

Anyone got one they want to sell me ?

best

lance

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

Mine does alright, I regularly get 450-500 per tank, mainly due to the powerfc being down tuned for economy, rather than power. Still has enough grunt to embarrass at times.

$30k and she is yours!

91000k's - Timing Belt has been replaced.

1997 Nissan Stagea RS4

Qld Registration: 018 ITX

VIN Number: 6U900WGNL34024288

Engine Number: RB25221315A

Modification List:

Mongoose Alarm with glass break sensor

R32 GTR manual gearbox w/ Nismo Heavy Duty Gearset and C-West short shift kit

R34 GTR pedal box

R34 GTR clutch master/slave

Apexi PowerFC w/ hand controller

Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller

Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler, with Custom Piping

Splitfire Coils

Gabwagon Adjustable Coilover Suspension

18” rims

Custom 3” Exhaust

Stagea RS260 centre console and handbrake assembly

Pioneer DEH-P6250 head unit

Nismo high-volume R33 GTR fuel pump

Greddy Turbo Timer

K&N Pod Filter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2266276
Share on other sites

Mine does alright, I regularly get 450-500 per tank, mainly due to the powerfc being down tuned for economy, rather than power. Still has enough grunt to embarrass at times.

$30k and she is yours!

91000k's - Timing Belt has been replaced.

1997 Nissan Stagea RS4

Qld Registration: 018 ITX

VIN Number: 6U900WGNL34024288

Engine Number: RB25221315A

Modification List:

Mongoose Alarm with glass break sensor

R32 GTR manual gearbox w/ Nismo Heavy Duty Gearset and C-West short shift kit

R34 GTR pedal box

R34 GTR clutch master/slave

Apexi PowerFC w/ hand controller

Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller

Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler, with Custom Piping

Splitfire Coils

Gabwagon Adjustable Coilover Suspension

18” rims

Custom 3” Exhaust

Stagea RS260 centre console and handbrake assembly

Pioneer DEH-P6250 head unit

Nismo high-volume R33 GTR fuel pump

Greddy Turbo Timer

K&N Pod Filter

sorry to go off topic, but which power fc is in your stag?

or if your not sure, then what numbers are on it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2266323
Share on other sites

sorry to go off topic, but which power fc is in your stag?

or if your not sure, then what numbers are on it?

He does not know, its tucked up into the dash.

Tried to ask that a year ago :)

Yeap, sorry :D

Maybe if I ever replace my heater core I'll find out, but that aint going to happen anytime soon, not unless someone wants to pay ~$1k for a workshop to do it......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2267076
Share on other sites

In the old days prior to May 2003 there were RWD Stageas being imported.

Under the new system they have to be 4WD.

I prefer RWD as well.

I think however AWD -> RWD is not as easy as just pulling the front shafts?

I think you will find RWD are still eligble but nobody imports them because they are not as popular as AWD

they are still on the SEVS register and definately comply with the power to weight rules (AWD has less than RWD)

here is the sevs page for the Stag http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/031-02.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2272106
Share on other sites

Go 4WD, its not as bad as you may think.

The benefits you get with extra traction in all seasons in my opinion far outweighs any downside.

And correct me if I'm wrong but the way the ATESSA awd system works if varies between full RWD and 50-50 as necessary so its not the same as the constant-4wd systems found on other 4wd cars. But either way you do still have the extra weight of the front diff.

Also, you may think the turbo is overkill but seriously the performance of my S2 Stagea (completely stock) is very close, if only slightly faster than a Ford BA Falcon wagon/sedan. I'd like mine to be a tad quicker but for people like yourself you may find it handy to know what its like in stock form.

Fuel economy may be slightly worse than an equivalent sized wagon (i'll use the BA wagon as an example) on long trips, but city driving should be fairly close. It does depend on driving style, but that goes for all cars.

For example:

Stagea S2 (mine) - city = ~13-14 L/100km, country = 10.7 L/100km (very consistent)

BA Wagon - city = ~12-13 L/100km, country = <10 L/100km (btw dont believe the factory figures from ford. if you want real-world figures, head over to an aussie ford forum and read for yourself - thats what I did when I was looking at the stagea - just for comparison).

And if you want better fuel economy, get an Apexi SAFC-2 installed and tuned and you'll be impressed.

These are very cheap to buy and tune. I plan to get one soon and have worked out it will pay itself off in just 6 months in fuel savings alone.

I'm hoping to lower my fuel consumption to around 11-12 L/100km for city driving and somewhere around or below 10 L/100km for country.

You wont be disappointed with an AWD Turbo Stagea! Trust me! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2272146
Share on other sites

You wont be disappointed with an AWD Turbo Stagea! Trust me! :)

what he said.

and i dont think the weight of the awd setup would make much difference in a car as heavy as a stagea anyway, would it? as far as fuel consumption goes? drop in the ocean or whatever.

and even so, would only matter if you were constantly slowing down then having to bring all that weight back up to speed again, right? just cruising it wouldnt make much difference...

does anyone know the actual weight diff between an awd and rwd stagea? much in it? 50/50kgs? i have no idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2272429
Share on other sites

I have to look further into this fellers.

You blokes do make it sound very tempting to get my a..se into one of these.

OK, now I'm not a mechanic so what about someone tells me all about this Apexi SAFC-2 that pixel8tr is getting all excited about.

They are a damn nice car ann't they.

Thanks for all the thoughts and imfo ppl.

best

lance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2272488
Share on other sites

To be fair though, 99% of the guys that give decisive opinions here are in no place to give them, as most of us have only driven AWD stags.

In the grand scheme of things, I think the RWD platform would be more fun for me (personally) due to the oversteer capabilities and yes, a little less weight in general could help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2272597
Share on other sites

does anyone know the actual weight diff between an awd and rwd stagea? much in it? 50/50kgs? i have no idea.

RS Four V - 1650kg's

25X - 1500kg's

Keep in mind though, the 25X is non turbo, so it's not just AWD vs RWD in the weight factor, it's missing a fmic, turbo, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2273787
Share on other sites

In the grand scheme of things, I think the RWD platform would be more fun for me (personally) due to the oversteer capabilities and yes, a little less weight in general could help.

awd is definately safer than rwd..... perhaps alex, just perhaps, the 4wd has 'saved' your life on an occasion and you havent even realized it? >_<

I NEVER want to go back to a rwd or fwd car again - awd all the way for me now. I love it; awd = confidence in grip and handling.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2273809
Share on other sites

weight difference between 4wd and 2wd is commonly about 180kg on skylines.

brendan, awd has probably saved my life a few times yes, but it could have also contributed to nearly killing me a few times too. Speak to you on MSN about what i mean.

in the grand scheme of things, it depends on the kind of person you are i think. I prefer to have the need to improve my skill so that when i need to use my skills (on the limit), they are there for the use.

Ive said it before, if i was to every buy my child a turbo car as a first car, id definatly consider a stagea or GTS4 style car.

The stagea was a good first car to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2274056
Share on other sites

weight difference between 4wd and 2wd is commonly about 180kg on skylines.

brendan, awd has probably saved my life a few times yes, but it could have also contributed to nearly killing me a few times too. Speak to you on MSN about what i mean.

in the grand scheme of things, it depends on the kind of person you are i think. I prefer to have the need to improve my skill so that when i need to use my skills (on the limit), they are there for the use.

Ive said it before, if i was to every buy my child a turbo car as a first car, id definatly consider a stagea or GTS4 style car.

The stagea was a good first car to me.

I totally understand!

PS - thats why I went the bike route way back in 1997. Wanted to improve my driving skills, as you mentioned, and I felt that was the best way to do so.

edit - I think Id like to add a 50:50 f:r split adjuster for the awd.

Edited by Tangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122735-rwd-non-turbo/#findComment-2274205
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...