Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im currently running my new engine in my stagea which is a jun stroker and t04z and im thinking of putting a stock rb26 into it to use as a daily and buy a cheap r31 and put my stroker engine into for drifting and motorkanas and even occasional drags.

now does the r31's have much aftermarket support like finding coilovers and suspension stuff? who sells aftermarket parts for them? does the aussie 31's use the same suspension and parts as the import 31's?

i dont want a silvia or 180sx as they are common as hell, and the 31 will fit my 26 straight into.

how will a 31 compare to silvias and the like on the drift tracks and also in motorkanas?

it will have a reliable 500rwhp+ with the t04z, but im abit worried the turbo is too big for drifting and track work due to the lag issues, anyone think this is a problem? maybe a gt30 is a better option?

does anyone know if any r31 drift cars are around?

any other info appreciated :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123413-r31-skyline-drift-car/
Share on other sites

i like the cut of your gib

rb26 into r31 = very easy

i had a rb26(hr31) witha 3540 and drifted it all the time its very much a case of drive around the lag and you can drift anything plus usable powerband = gtr has that

aftermarket support for r31 everything

suspension (convert it to s13 gear)

diffrence between a r31 and a s13 for drift is you actually have to drive a r31 to drift it... while s13's are drift cars for L platers

if your seriouse just pm me i can gide you in the way of the r31 grasshopper!

Edited by fatz

how bout a HR30 coupe?

RB engines are an easy conversion for the 6cyl L20ET, has 4wheels discs, 16*8" on the back, IRS & the 4.1 R200 diff should take all the power you can throw at it!

$4000 to a good home

and I'll throw in a race seat :P

post-15659-1146699937.jpg

Edited by hrd-hr30

Dont use the AUS version IMO.

Coupe is the way to go

RB26 into HR31 isnt as easy as you let on Pete. Being im going through it now, just as you have.

Especially because Brad is using a stoker that gives some nice big rev's.

You dont wanna be using the tin RB25 pan, rather i would reccomend without a doubt the much stronger and supportive RB26 one

So you'll need a custom RB26 sump modified to be a similar design to an RB25 pan.

Other than that its not a lot harder, its just the added cost of the sump if you dont have a spare, then you need it modified.

HR31 HICAS you might aswell p|ss off aswell. So far its cost me $400 for a new rack/modified powersteering pump. Which is pretty cheap.

Im yet to workout the cost for locking the rear rams off correctly.

But i doubt its expensive.

One other guy has used a Z31 subframe, i can link more info if you want.

HR31 Diff is a simple case of take it out, and shim the thing up. Race Pace here in Melb did a custom one for me. Farken amazing it is.

HR31 suspension, can convert to S13 gear. You might also find HR31 coil overs on Yahoo etc.

Alternatively, look for a coupe over in Japan that already has coilovers and save the hassle all together.

You will need a RB25 box, you'll need the VL/R33 yoke and modify the HR31 crossmember to suit.

And a R32GTR speed sender in the RB25 unit if you want the speedo to work.

HR31s also have rear end squat issues. Although, getting harder suspension does alleviate a lot of that, and squat will if anything, give you more wheelspin, easier.

So its a compromise... As its less rubber touching the ground under load more suqat you have, hence you wanna eliminate some of it, but not all IMO.

There is some info to get you going. Nothing else comes to mind right this second

Any more questions Brad? hehe

hey guys cheers for all the info, i knew just the mention of a 31 and fatz and nismoid are in the thread in the blink of an eye, haha, :)

ok to get started i dont want to spend heaps on a shell its only a drift hack and drag hack to run some good times down the strip and smash panels on the track. thats the reason i want an aussie 31, i know they dont look anywhere near as good as the 2 door hr31's but i aint a billionaire and im talking around 2k max for a shell. shit paint and dodgy panels i dont really care i just wanna be able to use my rb27 to its limit :yes: ill also be gutting the interior completely to save weight.

now i havent actually checked the going rate of aussie 31's but im sure they aint as dear as the import ones.

so does the s13 suspension gear still fit on the aussie 31's? so if i just buy a set of s13 coilovers they will bolt str8 on?

whats the diff like for holding power and are they LSD ? or do i need a r200 gtr diff or something to handle it? do they fit str8 in the r31 diff housing or do i need to change the whole diff?

how much do they weigh stock? and how much totally stripped out (one seat and a few gauges and thats it)?

so the plan is so far....

r31 shell

my rb27 engine

get a rb25 gearbox

r32 gtr speedo drive

rb25 yoke

modified tailshaft (which model do i use?)

autronics smc ecu

i got r34 brembo front calipers and dba 330mm rotors sitting in my room, will they bolt str8 on?

some sort of rollcage

how about the stock radiator is that ok to use?

ill definately get a rb26 sump and modify it (damn i just sold my spare one about 3 weeks ago :laugh: )

aussie 31's dont have HICAS do they?

does the power steering pump bolt str8 on?

need some slicks for the drags too as i plan on setting it up for drags firstly then later on once i run a good time ill switch it to a drift/track setup

what swaybars fit? gtr/gts-t/s13???

what else is needed to get them to handle well?

anything else needing upgrading to cope with the power output?

thats about all i can think of at the moment...

thanks again for your input, and remember i dont care if it looks shit as long as it handles and moves :yes:

anyone got any links/pics of some nice 31's as well???

cheers

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner

Although your motor basically defines over capitalisation, I honestly think you are pushing the defenition by putting it in a R31. Its a dish best served cold with budget modifications.

I'd really look at other applications for that motor.

honestly who gives a shit what the car is as long as it goes. ive spent a fortune on the engine and its just not suitable for daily use in the stagea (plus the 1700kg weight factor). so i want a cheap drag/drift car.

i dont want to spend $8-10K just on a shell for thrashing at the track, its gonna be a track only car and for abit of fun. the cheaper the better in my opinion :laugh:

i paid more for the t04z then i want to spend on the entire shell, but thats because i put performance way before having a bling bling car and fancy rims/paint job

wait till u see a shitty lookin r31 running big numbers down the strip then it will turn some heads :)

10 second quarters is the aim and as long as the driveline holds up i cant see any problems :yes:

your gonna need a $1500+ diff for the AUS R31 if you want it to last with that kinda power.

KAAZ locker or similar as you cant stick an import diff into the aus spec realistically.

The AUS diff is the most failure prone piece of crap ever designed.

Seriously, buy a shell for 2k... you'll spend 2-3times that getting it ready.

So IMO get the HR with some fruit on it already. Considering you DONT need to rego it... 6-7k and you'll be laughing. Will have the suspension already most likely.

your gonna need a $1500+ diff for the AUS R31 if you want it to last with that kinda power.

KAAZ locker or similar as you cant stick an import diff into the aus spec realistically.

The AUS diff is the most failure prone piece of crap ever designed.

Seriously, buy a shell for 2k... you'll spend 2-3times that getting it ready.

So IMO get the HR with some fruit on it already. Considering you DONT need to rego it... 6-7k and you'll be laughing. Will have the suspension already most likely.

wheres that welder gone :)

R31s make great drifters. If you want the ultimate in driveline strength put a minispool and a 1-piece tailshaft in. The axles are bloody strong, I drove a locked diff daily for almost 3 years and never had a problem (includes tight parking etc). Drifting is nowhere near as harsh as tight corners for a locker.

RB26 in an R31 would make LOTS of smoke :happy:

Edited by Kinks

if it's only for track I would import a track only 32 GTST or even GTR. sell of the GTR motor ($5K there easy). whack your motor in and on balance the car will probably have cost you $3-$5K max. or even whack the motor in your stagea which will save you having to fork out for a RB26 for the stag. plus putting your motor in the GTR has no mods at all, and already has a driveline to match. if you want drive you could remove the front driveshafts etc maybe even look at a more permanent RWD solution, and for drag 32 GTR traction will be a bonus. also if you do strip it you can sell all the interior for $$$. something to think about.

or buy marks aussie 31. it's already set-up for competition with cams approved cage etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...