Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yer, I got that :)

Ur nismo gearset is a smaller ratio than standard - ie: making more acceleration... Correct? so standard GTS4 gearset with resulting final drive ratio should be OK?

Are GTS4 and GTR gearbox ratio's different (i would assume they are - RB26TT power vs NA RB25) thus - the more acceleration from the GTS4 gearbox would have similar results on the whole 3500rpm down the highway drama so GTS4 gearbox would not be 'the best option'

???

Finally... GTR diffs are 4.3 whereas Stagea are 4.11 (supposedly)...so how are people not farking up their 4wd? (apart from Yokotas who has no front propeller shaft anymore :happy: ?... different crowning kits etc etc (i think they are called that)...

Me and my questions....meh

Yer, I got that :)

Ur nismo gearset is a smaller ratio than standard - ie: making more acceleration... Correct? so standard GTS4 gearset with resulting final drive ratio should be OK?

Are GTS4 and GTR gearbox ratio's different (i would assume they are - RB26TT power vs NA RB25) thus - the more acceleration from the GTS4 gearbox would have similar results on the whole 3500rpm down the highway drama so GTS4 gearbox would not be 'the best option'

???

Finally... GTR diffs are 4.3 whereas Stagea are 4.11 (supposedly)...so how are people not farking up their 4wd? (apart from Yokotas who has no front propeller shaft anymore :happy: ?... different crowning kits etc etc (i think they are called that)...

Me and my questions....meh

I asked a similar question in the other manual checklist thread

/www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=65422&view=findpost&p=2152863

So for example, all 5spd manual boxes are 1:1 ratio in 4th. The transfer case on the back of the auto and manual gearbox is also 1:1. The gear ratio's in the gearbox are irrelavant.

So the final ratio's are not changed from a auto to manual conversion

Does that make sense?

I asked a similar question in the other manual checklist thread

/www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=65422&view=findpost&p=2152863

So for example, all 5spd manual boxes are 1:1 ratio in 4th. The transfer case on the back of the auto and manual gearbox is also 1:1. The gear ratio's in the gearbox are irrelavant.

So the final ratio's are not changed from a auto to manual conversion

Does that make sense?

If so then that is good news... perhaps the 33 4 door auto is different to the stagea 4WD auto - besides the transfer case obviously. hmmm.....

THanks guys

Edited by captinsane

thats all good that the gearboxes are the same ratio

but the diffs would be a diff ratio auto to manual

any one know the diff ratios for the gtr(frt and rear) and the stagea ?

if you change only the rear diff(ratio)then you are going to get windup where the rear wheels

are turning faster than the frt wheel due to the ratios

yeah dean... the GTR diffs are 4.11 and Stagea are 4.3 (I am sure of it at least)

Brad - when you replaced the rear diff - did you replace the front also? or have i missed something - did you alter the diff ratio from 4.11 to 4.3 - your PM before mentioned nothing of it.

Edited by captinsane

you only have a problem with ratios if you swap the front or rear diff without swapping the other. And you will notice straight away the 4wd will go crazy. Changing the box or xfer case makes no difference as it affects both front and rear drive shafts

so why is my stock S1 auto sitting at about 500RPM lower at -110kph?

I thought the overdrive in the manual would bring it down to about the same.

2700 @ 110k/hr... that actually isn't too bad at all. i could even get a different ratio 5th later on if i wind up doing a LOT of highway driving (like Brisbane to TSV every few weeks). That's golden.

FYI also

GTR R32

1st gear ratio 3.214

2nd 1.952

3rd 1.302

4th 1

5th 0.752

most Nissan auto's in O/D (Q35, 240sx, s15 et etc so it is similar regardles of engine capacity and power etc etc) seem to be in the range of 0.65 or 0.69, if the torque convertor isn't running all over the place as you feather the pedal and lock up the TC, and then wind up boost, and then go back tdown again... I HATE AUTOS

so basically the RPM and speed is perfectly fine... and the diff is fine stock for daily application... unless i want to do a BRADLEY..bwahahahahahahaha (*thinks...ahh...RB30DET torque :P *)

AWESOME

i might even get a custom 5th gear made up if i ever convert...make the ratio 0.7 or something close to that. I find that when trying to sit on 100 off boost in O/D i intermitently lock up the TC to maintain speed (stays constant at 90-95kmph and 120kmph...just not 100-110) ... thus perhaps the 0.65 or whatever in the auto OD is a little low for long distance applications.

Edited by captinsane

When I was running the R33 GTS-4 box 100 km/h was about 2700rpm from memory. My final drive is 4.083. Don't ask me what it was when it was Auto, I really have no idea.

Now I have the RB26 & the 260RS 5 speed but still running the same diff (but with my 18's) & now its 2500rpm at 100 km/h. I will be fitting the 260RS diff shortly (a 4.111) so it will change again no doubt. My speedo is 100% correct as I have driven past a couple of those mobile 'display speed' trailers that we have round here every now & again.

I'm not too sure where everyone gets this "stagea's run a 4.3 ratio" as I have NEVER seen one with RE4R01A RC43 on the chassis tag. All that I've seen (and there have been a few) have had RE4R01A RC40 (same as mine) suggesting a 4.0 : 1 ratio

I'm not too sure where everyone gets this "stagea's run a 4.3 ratio" as I have NEVER seen one with RE4R01A RC43 on the chassis tag. All that I've seen (and there have been a few) have had RE4R01A RC40 (same as mine) suggesting a 4.0 : 1 ratio

you would be correct... i got the numbers from Brad but forgot to remember that he changed his diffs front and rear so that he could get more POWAAAA

And the Autech diff ratio's being different makes perfect sense creating more acceleration (if autech is 4.111 and RSfour spec is 4.0)

YAY... so the verdit for me is that replace the GB and your freeway rpm remains very comparable -and is not worth whinging about :blink: I am le-happy...

  • 3 weeks later...

Well, After over a year of preparation, I have finally started my manual conversion. I took the front bumper off to get her up on stands while I put the clutch/brake pedals in, as well as a new turbo and replace a lot of worn seals. Hopefully in a few weekends I'll get it all finished, then it's off to the workshop for a quick gearbox switch-a-roo and I'm ready to go. PowerFC can wait a bit longer until I've got the car (and funds) back under control.

post-4352-1180166845_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...