Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah I have been told there are some fairly substaintial gains that can be had from SR20DET heads being ported. The first thing i did with my built motor was to get 1mm oversized exhaust valves which would help a little in the flow department - as I was too scared to lose any low down torque from major head porting lol...

Thanks once again for your help Daniel...

sydney kid, you never cease to amaze me with the shit that comes out of your brain and onto this forum.

Strangely enough some of the stuff that you post doesn’t amaze me at all

MPH is a direct result of power, there are other measures but MPH is a bloody good measurable realisitc measure, circuit times and ets aren't.

I know that you know its average power to weight not max power on its own. Why do you persist in promoting something that is so obviously wrong?

fact remains, its a known fact toyota engines JZ series will take far more power for far longer periods of time than RB engines. that is fact.

That’s you opinion not a fact, JZ’s cost more to make the same power as RB26’s. We have had this discussion before, whether I spend $1K on stronger rods or $1K on an inlet manifold is irrelevant, it still costs $1K to fix the problem. Your problem is you think not spending money on the inside of an JZ somehow makes it superior even though you spend more on the outside fixing the JZ’s shortcomings in that area.

one of the main reason i built my car was to go race GTST's and flog there arse

I have looked long and hard at the ANDRA Sport Compact Records and I can’t find one JZ at the top of any list. A couple of RB’s though. I have also had a look at the HPI Radial challenge and I can’t find one JZ at the top of that list either. A few RB’s on top there as well.

but its people like you SK that make all other skyline haters hate skyline owners. many toyota guys get on this forum

The problem is I currently work on more Toyotas at race meetings than I do Skylines at the moment. Perhaps that’s the problem.

i apologise ahead of time if my comments have offended anyone.

Eh, a bit of venting never hurt anybody, as long as it is done in the right spirit. Plus it would be a very boring forum if we all agreed with each other all of the time.

:dry: cheers :D

How does VVT give larger CFM readings? AKAIK on RB's, SR's and 2J's the VVT doesn't activate a third inlet valve, change the port size, manipulate runner size or length, or do anything other than change the lobe center on the camshaft.

Edit: Also your flow readings.. are they an average? What lift? What pressure? What measuring equipment?

ok the name calling and bickering stops now. this thread has great info in it, but it's not a debate on whether or not mph=power, or is rb more reliable than jz or does jz power faster cars than rb or whatever.

i'm inclined generally to just let things run their course but the fighting is wrecking and diluting the thread. I'm not singling anyone out, but the next person to start up with the arguing will cop a warning. everyone in this argument has had their say now, so lets just leave it be.

any questions on flow of RB vs JZ heads etc or info is welcome of course. :dry: so bearing that in mind lets continue shall we?

Strangely enough some of the stuff that you post doesn’t amaze me at all

I know that you know its average power to weight not max power on its own. Why do you persist in promoting something that is so obviously wrong?

So 2 cars, equal weight, trans, driver, suspension etc. One has 450rwhp from 4000rpm to 7000rpm. Another has 550rwhp from 5500-7000rpm. Are you telling me that the 450rwhp car will out trap the 550rwhp car?

That’s you opinion not a fact, JZ’s cost more to make the same power as RB26’s. We have had this discussion before, whether I spend $1K on stronger rods or $1K on an inlet manifold is irrelevant, it still costs $1K to fix the problem. Your problem is you think not spending money on the inside of an JZ somehow makes it superior even though you spend more on the outside fixing the JZ’s shortcomings in that area.

Difference is that the RB rods are a necessity wheras the stock inlet manifold on a 1 or 2jz or fine unless you are wanting to squeeze every last HP out of your engine and you want to push the torque curve higher up the rev range.

I have looked long and hard at the ANDRA Sport Compact Records and I can’t find one JZ at the top of any list. A couple of RB’s though.

4wd vs RWD on street tyres. Hmm... :)

I have also had a look at the HPI Radial challenge and I can’t find one JZ at the top of that list either. A few RB’s on top there as well.
Negative it seems.

Carlos: 10.04@150mph. 2.23 60 ft.

am i writing in invisible ink?

edit: in case I wasn't clear debating about things unrelated to RBvsJZ heads and flow figures etc is going to stop. you are now just debating the same point over and over. if you want to argue the toss with sydneykid pm him and do so.

  • 3 weeks later...
As for flow numbers here they are:

Rb26 (std) Inlet: 148cfm Ex: 105cfm

Rb25 (std) Inlet: 136cfm Ex: 98cfm

2JZ (std) Inlet: 139cfm Ex:121cfm

1JZ (std) Inlet: 134cfm Ex: 115cfm

very interesting figures there

also note that the 2J has a lift of 8.61/8.79mm while the 26 im pretty sure is only 8.1/8.2mm??

also, a guy in the the states flowed the 2J and 1J heads and got significantly higher figures than that!!

was done at 400lift (10.16mm) but not sure at what inches of water it was done at tho

his figures read:

std 2J as follows

238@400lift intake

154@400lift exhaust

std 1J

215@400 intake

133@400 exhaust

your 2J figures give a percentage of 87% while his gives 64.7%

granted his tests are done at alot more lift which will give a higher reading

cheers

Troy

  • 7 months later...
very interesting figures there

also note that the 2J has a lift of 8.61/8.79mm while the 26 im pretty sure is only 8.1/8.2mm??

also, a guy in the the states flowed the 2J and 1J heads and got significantly higher figures than that!!

was done at 400lift (10.16mm) but not sure at what inches of water it was done at tho

his figures read:

std 2J as follows

238@400lift intake

154@400lift exhaust

std 1J

215@400 intake

133@400 exhaust

your 2J figures give a percentage of 87% while his gives 64.7%

granted his tests are done at alot more lift which will give a higher reading

cheers

Troy

Just dug this thread up. I didn't expect to actually find any more decent info, just more bullshit!

Thanks Daniel for providing the figures. Very interesting. :)

  • 11 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...