Jump to content
SAU Community

Greddy Mspec Fmic Kit $750 Vs Hybrid Fmic Kit $650

{AMO}

By {AMO},
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Michael_1882 Mentor

Michael_1882

Posted
Posted

Hmmm i wasn't sure on the reasons behind, thanks for that. I just know that shipments that have been order to australia, (apparently comign from Japan) are beign delaid, i think your probaly right, the fact there new on the market is obvioulsy another reason why theres a delay.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
Posted
I didn't know it was made in China.

Fair enough my point still stands though - if you NEED a $750-$2000 kit get one. If you don't car or just need something for 200rwkw then get the forum sponsor nonames.

I'd still be going the Calsonic :D

I have one..Calsonic FTW!

Wink Grand Master

Wink

Posted
Posted

I want to see if the piping and fitting for the GReddy kits is as bad as the ones for the Hybrid/JJ/Generic kits...

I'd hate to see a step down for a reputable brand such as GReddy/Trust to have an instruction such as "Step5: Hack off this part of your radiator fan"

It's generally accepted the actual FMICs are the same quality that can handle the same amount of power but in my opinion the quality of the kits is reflected in the piping/fitting and not the FMIC itself.

Michael_1882 Mentor

Michael_1882

Posted
Posted

Wink the piping for the Mspec folows the exact same route as teh V-SPL kit. The actully piping is probably better then it's more expensive trust counter part, as it uses all silcon hoses and not rubber, and the actully piping is pollished steel for the ppl who want that shiny bling look.

Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
Posted (edited)

The Mspec kit has "GReddy SPL-V" piping (except has Silicon joiners- SPL-V has rubber hose)!

The Cores are made in Taiwan but made to Japanese Standards!

There wont be anything wrong with them, personally id rather buy GReddy as all the pipes and everything will fit up nicelly! Plus im not planning for 250+rwkw's

Quote from nissan silvia:

"We have spoken to Greddy/Trust Japan and the Intercooler Core is made in Taiwan, however the Quality inspection and control has been done by Greddy Japan. Piping is the same as V-Spec and is made in Japan."

Link if u r interested!

Edited by hawker05
Wink Grand Master

Wink

Posted
Posted

Shit if this offer was available when I got my FMIC I'd have paid $100 so I wouldn't have to either

A) Cut up my rad fan

B) Modify the piping brackets to fit the kit on without doing A)

Also my JJ kit has REALLY thin piping. When you knock it with your knuckles it feels like you could bend the piping with your fingers.

bigdamoc Explorer

bigdamoc

Posted
Posted

hey all, i dont know too much about fmic bout i got quoted $700 fitted from the place i bought my car from, i know its only some sort of hybrid but the piping and connections are silicon (blue) and seem to look good. I know there probably as good as the other ones going around but isnt it better to have a good shit one then a shit good one, if that makes sense, lol

GKTECH Mentor

GKTECH

Posted
Posted
zGee thats cheap for the gtek. Do you have to cut the bar etc?

Is the Gtek one a bit too big?

Is it 2.5" piping?

Cheers

You have to trim the front bar (as with almost all intercooler kits).

The piping is all 2.5" polished mandrel bent aluminium.

cheers,

Greg

  • 1 month later...
J_Red33 Experienced

J_Red33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I thought I'd revive it as I've been looking at this situation myself & I have a few questions it would be appreciated if some people could answer.

How much better is a Tube & Fin intercooler over a Bar & plate & how critical is the end tank design? Not sure which would be the go in absolute performance terms as far as a cheap tube & fin vs an expensive good performing bar & plate type one.

I also eventually want to go a front facing plenum as the long term plan is for 300+ rwKW so the Piping won't be permanant. Would I have to cut the hole under the battery plate further forward if I was to change to a front facing plenum? I don't want my car to be a butchers special.

I have looked at the V-spec Greddy/Trust tube & fin cooler too, but I can't see that the price of it over the Hybrid is justified. Sure it fits right & has better end tanks, but for double the price? It'd wanna be made in Japan for that money!

My other alternative is to just wait unit I got the money for the plenum too & go full custom.

Any input appreciated. Cheers

Edited by JazzaR33
GKTECH Mentor

GKTECH

Posted
Posted (edited)

For the price of $349 we sell full Intercooler kits for the GTS-T's.

The intercoolers will support 300rwkw's without a problem.

If you're talking in terms of Hybrid *tube and fin* VS the bar and plate there is NO noticable difference. The Hybrid *tube and fin* is NOTHING like a japenese tube and fin. It's more like a bar and fin... ?

BUT If you're talking in terms of bar and plate VS Japense tube and fin, then you might have a slight difference but I have still not been able to tell the difference between coolers with close to 300rwkw's (r32 with RB25 and TD06 high mount setup).

If you use one of our kits (or equivelant) then there really isn't a need to cut another hole later on as the piping can still run through that side of the car and is pretty much in the right location for a front facing plenum. You would just need to lose the top cross over pipe and get 1 pipe made up (probably cost $100 or so to get custom made in stainless).

Value for money, there is no point of going Hybrid, but if you like brand names then the Jap coolers are great :(

That's my opinion and I use these on my own cars...

Greg

Edited by EXAUNV
J_Red33 Experienced

J_Red33

Posted
Posted

One other thing I did forget to mention. I don't want to be chopping the crap out of my front structural beam either. After witnessing a rather horrific crash involving another 33 I want to be sure I have every mm of that sucker in front of me.

Thanks for the info EXAUNV

GKTECH Mentor

GKTECH

Posted
Posted
One other thing I did forget to mention. I don't want to be chopping the crap out of my front structural beam either. After witnessing a rather horrific crash involving another 33 I want to be sure I have every mm of that sucker in front of me.

Thanks for the info EXAUNV

I don't think there's any aftermarket front mount intercooler kits that don't require you to cut into the bar re-enforcement.

When the intercooler is there and supporting the reo aswell, I think it is okay (only a small amount has to be cut out) (just don't remove it all together like some people do!!)

Greg

Mickyb Enthusiast

Mickyb

Posted
Posted
I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I thought I'd revive it as I've been looking at this situation myself & I have a few questions it would be appreciated if some people could answer.

How much better is a Tube & Fin intercooler over a Bar & plate & how critical is the end tank design? Not sure which would be the go in absolute performance terms as far as a cheap tube & fin vs an expensive good performing bar & plate type one.

I also eventually want to go a front facing plenum as the long term plan is for 300+ rwKW so the Piping won't be permanant. Would I have to cut the hole under the battery plate further forward if I was to change to a front facing plenum? I don't want my car to be a butchers special.

I have looked at the V-spec Greddy/Trust tube & fin cooler too, but I can't see that the price of it over the Hybrid is justified. Sure it fits right & has better end tanks, but for double the price? It'd wanna be made in Japan for that money!

My other alternative is to just wait unit I got the money for the plenum too & go full custom.

Any input appreciated. Cheers

I would also like to see some definitive answers to your questions too. The CRD tube and fin Hybrid copy FMIC for $379 looks alright to me, but if it is quite limited then I don't want to have to upgrade to a V-spec or similar at a later date.

Glad you dragged this one up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...