Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

nice! love the rims!!

Thanks mate - they're OZ Racing 18's.. quite fitting for the euro style cars.

The kerb weight of the standard 318i is 1380kg from memory.. not much heavier than the r32 (which is 1320??). mind you the new motor probably weighs a bit more than what was taken out.. wanna take it to weigh bridge to find out what i'm lugging around.

Handles real good, i always loved how this car handled (just wasn't too quick).. the bmw's steering and suspension is quite good considering it's meant to be a family car.

Awsome looking car mate, well done! How much did the bmw set ya back in the first place if you dont mind me asking?

about 11k for the bimmer (had high km's on it), owes about 20k as it sits now.. i would have bought a r32 but i'm a bit too tall (6'4"), the r33's are a bit too ugly (personal opinion, please dont sent me a parcel bomb), and the r34's were a bit too pricey.

so i'm happy with it now.. 'cept i want some more power i think :D

Nice work :) How is it for refinement compared to the gutless but smooooth smaller BMW engines?

about 11k for the bimmer (had high km's on it), owes about 20k as it sits now.. i would have bought a r32 but i'm a bit too tall (6'4"), the r33's are a bit too ugly (personal opinion, please dont sent me a parcel bomb), and the r34's were a bit too pricey.
Parcel bomb coming your way :rofl: Nah it's all good, look around on these forums and you'll see many R32 vs R33 vs R34 arguments, usually the R33 gets ganged up on by the elitist R34 owners who call it old, and the R32 owners who call it ugly and a whale, but secretly wish they had one :(
Great project and very well done! Now it will go like every other 3 series should.....but doesn't.

:D

Yeah a mate had an E36 320i. Smooth as silk, stopped on a 5c piece and handled like it was on rails. But omfg was it slow, especially under 3k. He did actually toy with the idea of an RB25, good to see someone who's actually gone and done the RB transplant :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...