Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just added a hiflow turbo to my skyline

it has these mods

apexi

3inch dump pipe and exhaust

Z32 airflow meter and pod

gtr fuel pump

front mount cooler

blitz boost controller

high flow ball bearing 450hp turbo from turbo australia

standard manifolds

on 10psi it made 251rwhp but ran into nock problems

at 13deg timing could not run any more boost or timing into it ...

The nock would go to high .

they even richened the fuel up at the top end .... to stop it knocking but this did not help

It would not knock till right on 6200rpm ....

Any one else seen this problem before ?

dnyo sheets are here http://www.tuffstreetcars.com/skyline2.pdf

http://www.tuffstreetcars.com/skyline.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126291-hi-flow-turbo-problem/
Share on other sites

He will be running a SAFC which you can run aftermarket AFM's with. . The SAFC has limitations you need to compromize between your air/fuel ratio and timing this is fine with the stock turbo but it starts to get difficult when an aftermarket turbo is added to the mix. Its probably time to invest in a Power FC or similar you will probably also need to upgrade the injectors.

cheers

He will be running a SAFC which you can run aftermarket AFM's with. . The SAFC has limitations you need to compromize between your air/fuel ratio and timing this is fine with the stock turbo but it starts to get difficult when an aftermarket turbo is added to the mix. Its probably time to invest in a Power FC or similar you will probably also need to upgrade the injectors.

cheers

sorry i have a power fc just tuned on the dyno ....im not using all of the injectors i have yet as i cant up the boost or timing as the knock goes to high looking at the turbo housing size ....right now but im not sure thats why i asked

Looking @ the dyno sheet, the tuning is nothing short of below average.

Has the tuner got expirience with PowerFC's ... and turbo performance in general ?

Whats the fuel pressure like?

Personally i would say the problem begins and ends with the workshop you have there.

I would go somewhere else for a secondary opinion.

Might cost some $$ but i would think it will save you some hassle

Seconded

Looking @ the dyno sheet, the tuning is nothing short of below average.

Has the tuner got expirience with PowerFC's ... and turbo performance in general ?

Whats the fuel pressure like?

Personally i would say the problem begins and ends with the workshop you have there.

I would go somewhere else for a secondary opinion.

Might cost some $$ but i would think it will save you some hassle

How can you have a power fc and a stock ecu? Piggybacked due to auto?

If it is a power fc tune then that is sub par, I agree with nismod, safc then acceptable and also explains your detonation issue and having to mess with the base timing rather than the specific cells where the detonation occurs.

yeah that's a pretty rough power curve. can see his mods to the AFRs were decent but the power is still quite ordinary.

Time to go for a full ECU, rather than a piggyback. If that is a full ECU then get a better tuner.

i just added a hiflow turbo to my skyline

it has these mods

high flow ball bearing 450hp turbo from turbo australia

standard manifolds

on 10psi it made 251rwhp but ran into nock problems

at 13deg timing could not run any more boost or timing into it ...

The nock would go to high .

Any one else seen this problem before ?

A little off thread Dan, but do you know the ID tag numbers off your hi-flow core?

The guys from Turbo Australia are pretty good, just interested to see what specs they ran for your unit.

I'd have a few concerns about the output, given I achieved 223rwhp with a stock turbo @ 7.5psi and other similar supporting mods to yours. Look at the tuning I suspect.

cheers

Edited by Dale FZ1
A little off thread Dan, but do you know the ID tag numbers off your hi-flow core?

The guys from Turbo Australia are pretty good, just interested to see what specs they ran for your unit.

I'd have a few concerns about the output, given I achieved 223rwhp with a stock turbo @ 7.5psi and other similar supporting mods to yours. Look at the tuning I suspect.

cheers

hi i dont have the turbo now its back at there shop ...till they sort it out, stock one is back on and feels a lot better then the high flow right now ...so im not sure what the problem is

How can you have a power fc and a stock ecu? Piggybacked due to auto?

If it is a power fc tune then that is sub par, I agree with nismod, safc then acceptable and also explains your detonation issue and having to mess with the base timing rather than the specific cells where the detonation occurs.

yeah sorry was late when i posted it just has the power fc handcontroler

Have you taken it somewhere else for tuning?

these are the guys the turbo shop wants to do the tune on it ...

when i bought the turbo i was told they done a lot of the 450hp hiflows , only to find out im now the first one they have done so they are trying to fix the problem best they can .

Edited by Turbo Dan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...