Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got my R33 GTS-T up on the dyno yesterday to see how she would go before I put the boost controller and FMIC on. I was a bit surprised at the result, I was expecting around 150rwkw, 160 tops. I never expected to see this. I had a look in the dyno thread, and there aren't too many stockers in there to compare to, and none have a graph that looks like this, hence the new thread.

The car is dead stock apart from a turbo back exhaust, and HKS pod filter. Everything else is dead stock standard. Standard boost, computer, turbo, fuel system, intercooler.... everything.

The graph doesn't have A:F Ratios on it, but they were between 12 & 13 the whole way through.

I notice that the power curve looks a bit wierd too, but I have noticed that alot of Skylines have sort of strange power curves.

Does this look right for a basically stock R33? Any other info would be appreciated.

post-27958-1153028014.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/
Share on other sites

airflow makes power. an intercooler doesnt add any more power. its certainly possible. but i would have expected wonky powercurves due to rich and retard. its probably remapped or something you dont know about the car. theres always a reason. there are no freak ecu's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2332376
Share on other sites

I notice that the AT is 10, IT is 18, I don't think it was 10 degrees at 11.30 on Saturday, but I suppose it proves that the pods pick up hot air from the engine bay. I don't think that a gap of 8 degrees would mean much correction value though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2332379
Share on other sites

The AFR didn't seem too lean, it was at about 13 at low revs - off boost, then steadily dropping to 12 higher in the rev range.

I am not sure how "happy" the dyno is, I have known a few people to get there cars dyno'd there as well as other places, and they reckon there is bugger all in it. I had my V8 ute dyno'd there a while back, and it made less power on that dyno than another DD dyno I previously ran on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2332725
Share on other sites

The AFR didn't seem too lean, it was at about 13 at low revs - off boost, then steadily dropping to 12 higher in the rev range.

I am not sure how "happy" the dyno is, I have known a few people to get there cars dyno'd there as well as other places, and they reckon there is bugger all in it. I had my V8 ute dyno'd there a while back, and it made less power on that dyno than another DD dyno I previously ran on.

Could the ECU be re-programed?

What boost was it running on the dyno?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2332752
Share on other sites

just remember people a dyno is a tuning tool.. each dyno will read differently regardless of wat people say and yes there are ways to make a dyno read higher.. no bonnet.. bp.. airtemp in wrong spot

afr's are lean.. would like to see a sheet with afr's on there..

also.. if it was 10degrees at 1130 on a saturday morning.. i feel sorry for you.. i absolutely hate the cold weather

Edited by rb26s13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2333253
Share on other sites

just remember people a dyno is a tuning tool.. each dyno will read differently regardless of wat people say and yes there are ways to make a dyno read higher.. no bonnet.. bp.. airtemp in wrong spot

afr's are lean.. would like to see a sheet with afr's on there..

also.. if it was 10degrees at 1130 on a saturday morning.. i feel sorry for you.. i absolutely hate the cold weather

I watched the guy set it up, the bonnet was closed, the IT sensor was hooked on to the wire mesh on my pod, so I don't know why it would read high.

I know that the AFRs are a bit lean, I suppose they should be at about 12 or a bit below for the whole run, but I wouldn't think 12.5 in the mid range should cause too many problems (unless I get some bad fuel and a really hot day) - but I could be wrong.

No idea about the ECU, the car is exactly how I bought it, I have changed nothing. I know that dyno's are a tuning tool, but from experiences others have had with these guys, apparently their dyno is pretty close to other workshops around, which is why I was a bit surprised.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2333318
Share on other sites

it is possible to remap the stock ecu. i have bought one that was remapped in japan. rev limit is lifted to 7600, no speed limiter and r&r.

those afr's are on the lean side, which would be the reason for the good power.

but i would have expected wonky powercurves due to rich and retard.
you really need to get over r&r mode. he is running stock turbo and boost. there is no way he could hit r&r with that. also it wouldn't just be a wobbly line if he did hit it, it would be a huge drop in power (almost to 0hp). those who have hit it will know that it isn't just the engine feeling boggy, it is as if the ignition has been switched off, then straight back on.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2333380
Share on other sites

Come to think of it, I suspect that the ECU may have been remapped, the boost curve and AFR curve were quite smooth for a car that has a stock ECU, especially compared to other AFR lines I have seen. If it has been, I suppose that may account for a little more power too.

The AFR's are a bit lean, is there any danger that the car could ping under any circumstances? What can I do to avoid this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2333523
Share on other sites

to avoid pinging use octane boost, but it is more the other affects of running lean that you want to watch out for. when it runs too lean for too long it damages the head.

an easy way to tell if it has been remapped is to see if there is a sticker on the ecu. 90% of the time they will have a sticker if they have been remapped. otherwise if you open it up you can tell for sure. the stock ecu has a smaller chip in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2333550
Share on other sites

Well my stock as a rock R33 pushed 144rw/kw then pushed 165rw/kw after a full turbo back 3" exhaust and considering i had bad misfiring coils and 95RON fuel on a 28 deg afternoon... I should be looking closer to the 170 - 175rw/kw now with the new coils, 98RON fuel and on a 10 deg morning...

But thats a very nice result Quinny... :D

Regards,

Sarkis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126308-dyno-result/#findComment-2333930
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...