Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, I just replaced my O2 sensor on my R32 GTS-t with an EL Falcon replacement as reccomended here but it is idling like crap so I unplugged it and it is fine again...

I am guessing that I got the wires wrong.

The R32 Sensor has Black, Red and White

The EL Falcon Sensor has 2 White and a Black.

I am guessing that the black goes to black? The others I just copied the output from the R32 sensor (red was top right and white was top left)

I am guessing I have them wrong, can someone tell me what is what??

Thanks!!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127517-el-falcon-o2-sensor-on-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

My Ford sensor had two white and one black. The black was the signal wire, and the two white were the heater wires.

My R33 plug had the same thing, but different colours. Could have been two black and one red. Can't remember, but they all hooked up fine.

Thanks but I don't think so. once it started playing up (after I put on a new dump pipe), I unplugged it to bypass the problem.

Thanks for the info about the wires. As stated the ford one that I have also has 2 white and 1 black wires.

The r32 sensor has a black, red and white. IS ANYONE ABLE TO TELL ME WHAT IS WHAT??

Thanks for your help so far!

Maybe someone adjusted your idle air control valve when your 02 sensor was dead? So when you plug it in, it's running correctly, but your adjustment is outta whack? Dunno. Just a guess.

I would wager a guess that the black and red both go to black, and your white wire goes to the black on on the 02 sensor. Still, dunno... someone will give you the answer though! You definately got the right one for your car, yeah?

Todd even though it is a cop-out, there are only three different ways to connect the sensor, given that the signal wire can only go in three different terminals and the heater wires are irrelevant. (and as Randy said, black = signal, white = heater). If you don't receive an answer, try trial and error and use a voltmeter to test the signal output. If you're in Sydney I can help out with a Consult cable.

As an outside chance, did you reset your ECU after installing? You'll need to clear the fault codes otherwise the ECU will most likely consider the sensor to be still broken and it'll revert to the run-rich ECU maps.

So I am guessing keep it how it is, plug it back in and reset the ECU? If I still have the problem I will try swapping them around!

Would still be great if someone could tell me for sure... surely someone has done this to an R32 before.

Thanks guys!

I've changed my O2 sensor with an EL Ford one as well, my experience with connecting things up was the same as Randy's. After an ECU reset the car ran fine (and still does). :) Would it be fair to say that the middle of the 3 wires is the signal, the other two are the heater wires? (pretty sure that's how mine was).

the el 1 is cheaper, but you have to wire it up.

i haven't done the research, but you have to take into account that if the sensor has different resistance and power then it can give the ecu false readings. for the extra money it is worth sticking with the proper one.

i know that the r33 unit is the same as used in the sr20 in the SSS pulsars and nx coupes (same part number). not sure if the rb20 is the same, but i think it might be.

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick question.

My car has an aftermarket computer. (Link)

Recently it has suddenly started getting worse fuel economy. Could it be my oxygen sensor, or does my ecu somehow not utilise the factory O2 sensor anymore?

It's probably a basic question, but I'm not mechanically minded!

Please reply, I'm sick of getting ~100kms less per tank then I was a few months ago!

If it's not likely to be the sensor, what else could be causing my sudden pathetic fuel economy? It literally turned bad over night.

Thanks :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...