Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all i was just wanting to know about

1990 NISSAN SKYLINE GXE

im thinking about it for a first car money is very tight at the moment so needing something cheap and reliable, so i thought i would ask here if they are good, reliable, strong, cheap to fix, low on fuel, cheap rego, cheap insurance, all round good cars?

here is a few pics of the ones i have been looking at

post-30287-1154347369.jpg

post-30287-1154347388.jpg

post-30287-1154347432.jpg

post-30287-1154347455.jpg

post-30287-1154347493.jpg

post-30287-1154347509.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/
Share on other sites

There is no doubt, it is a good car. You need to do some budgeting though. When i got my first car, it was only a four cylinder. This saved me a lot on petrol. Not saying that the skyline chews through fuel, (nothing like a 5.7l V8) but I did feel the difference of six cylinders when I got my R33. I think its worth paying a little extra for, but the final decision is up to you. I'd say its a good first car. Good luck with the car hunt, let us know how you go. :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2371825
Share on other sites

Yes the R31 is a nice reliable first car, one of my mates got one about 6 years ago when we we're still in school - looks exactly the same as the second on in those pics. He still drives it today. I've been thinking of getting one myself lately and getting an LPG conversion so I can run it as a daily.

Just take your time and wait until you find the right one :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2371852
Share on other sites

better than what i had, but in terms of fuel costs, nothing beats my little "dune buggy" aka 1982 honda civic. If I recall correctly in 35 ltrs i had achieved around 500klms (which is around 7ltrs per 100). It would probably have been better when it was aroudn 10 years old, but hey cant complain.

The only down side apart from the space and all that is the power. The 1.3 took ages to get to 100km/h - so when I got the r33, it took me a few days to get used to the rapid response of the throttle....

If you want to get a good 80's skyline, make sure that the car has been regularly serviced - you dont want it eating up fuel - not now anyway....

Edited by emsta2003
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2386255
Share on other sites

r31 probably not a bad choice... Just being an old car get it checked out, find out what needs doing to it, and how much its going to cost before handing over any money. The fuel cost wont kill you, fixing stuff will.

A corolla wouldnt be bad either. Cant kill them. Same thing tho hey. Old car need to know what needs doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2386265
Share on other sites

Yeah great car, i previosly had a R31 silloutte burgandy over silver, got it off parents who owned it since new, had 500,000 k's on clock and still was running awsome, not a problem exept power steering pump gave up, had some mods, extractors, 2.5 inch custom exhaust twin pipes and power and torque chips in ecu, got bout 400k's a tank, you cant go wrong with the r31 i think, they can take a beating, we looked after that car well it looked after us great choice and you will be very happy with it and if need parts the gxe and all that are good with finding parts unlike the silloutte and gts. But you got a great car there mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2393387
Share on other sites

I had an r31 GXE when I was about 20 for my second car.. did me well..

back then they were in the daggy basket that nobody cared about. Now it seems they're a popular first car.

I had a VL commodore, dont buy one of those. They share the same engine and trans as the R31. Awesomely reliable! Although the commodore rusted out and had a terrible interior. Things to check are power steering racks ( i think , make sure no leaks) and if its an auto, check the overdrive works and engauges gears correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2399910
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...