Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Paul, what makes you think the stock sidemount doesn't flow?

It has a full duct around it. There's not much blocking it behind.

How does your fmic flow? doy ou have a duct around it?

Applying the air takes the easiest path, wouldn't air flow around your cooler?

Also, it's blocked by the radiator and aircon radiator behind it.

PS: those who said that installing a new cooler does not increase power are wrong.

The stock cooler is simply a restriction to power. It is a bottleneck. it doens't flow enough. granted, cooling is also a problem.

Both of these problems are improved when fitting an r34 cooler.

Paul, what makes you think the stock sidemount doesn't flow?

It has a full duct around it. There's not much blocking it behind.

How does your fmic flow? doy ou have a duct around it?

Applying the air takes the easiest path, wouldn't air flow around your cooler?

Also, it's blocked by the radiator and aircon radiator behind it.

PS: those who said that installing a new cooler does not increase power are wrong.

The stock cooler is simply a restriction to power. It is a bottleneck. it doens't flow enough. granted, cooling is also a problem.

Both of these problems are improved when fitting an r34 cooler.

you just said in the same post, that its not restricted at all, and then that its a bottleneck, and is restrictive....

No Dezz you've misunderstood his post.

Any intercooler is a restriction to flow of air from the turbo to the engine, thats part of how they work. Say your engine is running at 10PSI boost, and you standard R33 intercooler restricts the flow by 3PSI. This means your turbo is actually producing 13PSI to get 10PSI at the engine.

By installing the R34 cooler, as it is bigger, its restriction is reduced, say to 2PSI. This means the engine is receiving 11PSI when the turbo is running at 13PSI. And therefore making more power.

The other way an intercooler is a restriction to airflow is to the ambient air that flows past it. The Stock SMIC, although they have a small frontall area for the air to flow through, have good ducting that forces the air the flow through the cooler fins, rather than around it.

Many aftermarket FMIC have crap ducting, so air flows around it rather than through it. In addition, the air then must flow through the radiator aswell at an increased temperature.

For your info replacing an R32/R33 cooler with an R34 or ARC SMIC will not be counted as an intake mod, as the dimension (roughly) and the mounting location hasn't been changed from standard.

This is what i plan to do with my R32, as i'm looking for only 180-200kw in the foreseeable future, and dont wish to have to get a new front bar and cut holes etc, and for ease of installation.

Cheers,

Rhett

After reading xRHETTx 's post it got me thinking..

the factory positioning of a smic is actually more logical and effective than the popular modification of the aftermarket location of a fmic.

so a nice upgrade is to exchange my r33 smic with an r34 smic..

but personally i'd like to safely run my stock turbo at a constant boost setting of 12psi

is it safe to do so with this r34 smic? or do i need to search the market for yet another higher quality smic of the same dimensions to fit that same side mount location

Many have run 12psi with no problems but some have had failures on less boost than this. Its debatable but 10psi is about the safest max, you will only gain marginal power going from 10psi to 12psi anyway 5-10rwkw, as the turbo is nearing the end of its efficency.

cheers

Edited by Munna1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...