Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well.. Just spent $90 + 3 hours washing, polishing and waxing the car...

Pics:

Used AutoGlym Bodywork Shampoo to wash the car all over..

Than used AutoGlym Ultra Deep Shine polish to remove as many of the scratches as possible.. They didn't have any Clay when I went up there which was a bit frustrating.. I noticed that this would certainly have picked up some of the water marks on the roof..

Polish did get rid of alot of dirt + some minor scratches..

Waxed with McGuiars canubra wax or whatever it was.. looks good, not the deepest shine, certainly cleaner.. and smells like wax now..

Would love to buff with an electric buffer...

All up, I haven't done this in over a year (i know..) but i'll keep up the wash + wax every couple of months.. it stays garaged + only driven 2 times at the most a week...

Forgot to add - My ARM FRICKIN HURTS..

Clay bars are excellent, but a mild swirl remover would probably be better to try on water marks.

An electric buff does take the elbow work out of it. Bosch make and excellent Random Orbit Sander (RO) that is good for those mere mortals amongst us. I would stay away froma non orbital buff (9 inch grinder type) as they can rip up paint easily and dont have speed adjustment. RO are very user friendly but I still use arm power for the wax

  • 1 month later...

Best products I have ever used and will continue using is the Mothers Clay bar, Mothers Scratch/Paint sealer and Mothers Canubra wax - I must admit the other half gave me the Mothers wax system with a orbital polisher and the key to this is that it distributes the wax evenly over the car so you use much less product and much less effort is required to apply and remove takes me about 2 hours to wash and 3 stage wax my car total cost for the polishing kit including the orbital polisher $150... money well spent

I use a mothers detailing kit, its available from www.summitracing.com costs about 70 buck till my country. probly about 100 till aussie. but its money well spent, you get like 10 different things to get your car shiny, comes with rim and tire polish, makes your car like new. and use those hands boys, god didnt give them just to wank off

  • 1 month later...
Best products I have ever used and will continue using is the Mothers Clay bar, Mothers Scratch/Paint sealer and Mothers Canubra wax - I must admit the other half gave me the Mothers wax system with a orbital polisher and the key to this is that it distributes the wax evenly over the car so you use much less product and much less effort is required to apply and remove takes me about 2 hours to wash and 3 stage wax my car total cost for the polishing kit including the orbital polisher $150... money well spent

I just purchased the Mothers Wax attack kit (electrical buffer)

Ive been reading/asking on Mothers forum and they say to use PowerPolish and PowerWax with the buffer. As they are both activated by the buffer. Problem is no australian store stocks PowerPolish...They told me to use Mothers Scratch Remover which is an alternative to PowerPolish. They state it will remove scratches, old wax etc.

Do you use the Mothers CleanerWax or do you use Mothers 3stage seperate system?

Thanks

  • 4 weeks later...

I did;

- Wash car with meg car suds

- Clayed car with Mothers Claybar

- Mothers Wax Attack Random Orbital buffer

--------- Mothers Scratch remover (whole car buffed)

--------- Mothers PowerWax

Results; (my paint is in real bad condition so it was the best i could get it to look :rofl: )

dscn4009mediumoa3.jpg

dscn4018mediumbu6.jpg

dscn4026mediumzq3.jpg

dscn4027mediumvd6.jpg

dscn4031mediumyg1.jpg

hmm... interesting thread. picking up tomorrow the following (some stuff i've already got)

Bosch RO

Edge polishing pads

menzerna polishes (power gloss, intensive polish, final finish)

OCW wax (optimum car wax) part synthetic/carnauba. Sooo easy to use. Spray bottle

Clay magic blue

Aquatouch MF (microfibre) (for buffing polish/wax)

Aquatouch MF washmit

Waffle Weave drying towel (MF)

Final Inspection car shampoo

Can't go wrong with these brands.

Zaino

Zymol

Swissol

Menzerna

Polylack (great sealants)

P21s (some good products, P21s wax, paint cleanser)

Detailing products can get VERY pricey, but there are lots of great products around for mortal prices.

Just read the first few pages, and man is there some mis-information. For nutter saying it was stupid to wait for overnight after applying a wax, most carnauba waxes have curing times, ie you HAVE to wait before layering. Carnauba waxes look better after they've been layered, so again to that nutter saying why put wax ontop of a wax, well, to achieve greater depth and gloss :/

Some waxes add a nice glow, with extra depth, some are just clinical in their clarity. The Polylack sealants are like that, will make your metallic flakes really POP and the clarity will be insane, but some people don't like that. So you top the sealant with a carnauba wax, layer it a few times and get the great deep/wet/gloss look. Killer on black cars.

Haven't read through the whole thread, but the first page alone was full of mis-information

Gave my car's paint a bit of attention for the first time (apart from a standard wash).

Before, dirty and swirls all over it

post-13456-1180849047_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1180849264_thumb.jpg

Did a test spot as there's no point doing the whole car before you can do it to a small section.

post-13456-1180849116_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1180849147_thumb.jpg

After

post-13456-1180849337_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1180849401_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1180849427_thumb.jpg

Process:

Washed car with Meguiar's NXT Car Wash

Clayed with Meguiar's Quik Clay

Random Orbital polisher with Meguiar's Dual action cleaner polish (M83)

Random Orbital polisher with Meguiar's Speed Glaze (M80)

2 coats of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax.

Easy test for NXT Tech wax (possibly for most??). Spread it on your prepped surface as evenly as possible. Let it sit, after a while use a clean finger to swipe off some wax. If you can see nice shiny paint its ready to come off. If it is a smeary streak it needs to sit longer.

Have started off with the Meguiar's products as there's heaps of info about them. May start to try some other products later on.

Edited by Fry_33
  • 1 month later...

Gotta Love Zaino

This pic was on a pretty cloudy day as well.

Used

Mothers Soft Wash

Megs clay

Z-AIO

Z-CS

Z-8 Final

I've had it on for a couple of weeks now and this stuff is awesome. Dirt, bugs, anything just slips straight off the paintwork with a bit of water.

Just a hint if buying Zaino - If you know someone in the US get them to buy and post to you, there's a big price difference. The above cost me around $150 (Zaino only) from the US and was closer to $250 if I bought from Zaino Australia.

post-194-1184622851_thumb.jpg

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Well thats some interesting polish talk.Another thing to add is dont polish in circle's, thats what gives the swirl marks in the first place.The correct way is to go straight up and down,never circles.Think of the way a car gets spray painted.Thats the way polish.

Well thats some interesting polish talk.Another thing to add is dont polish in circle's, thats what gives the swirl marks in the first place.The correct way is to go straight up and down,never circles.Think of the way a car gets spray painted.Thats the way polish.

I would have to disagree with that.. I'm no expert but if you are putting circles (swirls) in your paint when you're polishing you are either using the wrong product or technique. It shouldn't matter what direction you are going in, most buffers/polishers use a circular motion of some sort, but used correctly don't put swirls in.

washing, you are correct, no circles. Also, no OVERLAPPING strokes.

Polishing is a little different, in that with an RO you work in a cross-hatch pattern... but by definition of an RO, it's circular anyway.

If you have a properly cleaned and prepared surface, circular polishing is fine. The main point is to remove the spent polish with a quality MF cloth. Aquatouch being amongst the best. If you have a poor MF cloth to buff off the polish, you could induce swirling.

Washing is where you have to be careful, as that's where the vast majority of swirls/scratches are introduced.

Good point Daniel.. I probably should have explained myself a little further.

Washing is where you will end up swirling the paint most of the time. Here is a link that goes through how to wash a car to try and prevent swirls. I know it sounds a bit silly to watch a guy wash a car but the guy is Mike Philips, who is Administrator for Meguiarsonline and runs meguiars howto classes (he knows what he's talking about). Every little bit of info helps in my opinion so have a look, you'll know some or most of it probably.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=75...owcargarage.com

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • This. The R34 handbrake icon DOES come up when the brake fluid level is low. You might be sitting right on that threshhold. I have been down this diagnosis path and this was the solution (and it was pretty much as full as your picture is to begin with).
    • Unfortunately the cavaet to that is that while any scan tool should be able to read the code, the workshop will need a consult plug to OBD socket adapter. You don't have a location on your profile, where are you based?
    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
×
×
  • Create New...