Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My GTR is just a normal GTR and my model is KBNR32RXFS7, the 7 on the end means it's a normal GTR, if it was an 8 it means it's a V-Spec II, if the number is absent, it's a V-Spec I.

Also the KBNR32RBFS, B means it has 17" V-Spec wheels.

http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html

Thanks very much.

So it confirrms that it is a V-Spec I

It has the BBS 17's, Finned Diff and Brembos but it is nice to be sure.

Thanks

Ash

Hi

I was reading the post above about "V" Spec 1 identification

Does the build number have to have the B for 17 inch wheels as well as the 7 and 8 missing?

EG The number KBNR32RXFSLMZG built 08/90. It does not have a 7 or 8 but come with 16 inch wheels and seems to early.

In what year and month were V specs first produced?

Cheers

The number you have quoted could be (paste from wikipedia):

The Skyline GT-R 'Nismo', introduced in February 22, 1990, has a total production of 560 units as required for the "Evolution" models regulation (over 500). Its purpose is to homologate a number of aerodynamic changes used in Group A racing. Changes include additional ducts in the front bumper to improve airflow to the intercooler, a bonnet lip spoiler to direct more air into the engine bay, and an additional boot lip spoiler to provide more downforce. The 'Nismo' GT-R was only available in Gunmetal Grey.

The unknown bits on the end, LMZG could indicate the intercooler ducts, bonnet lip spoiler, boot lip spoiler etc (ive never seen a Nismo R32 GTR model string before)

As for it being a V-Spec, impossible (paste from wikipedia):

To celebrate the success of the GT-R in both Group N and Group A racing, Nissan introduced the Skyline GT-R V-Spec ("Victory Specification") car on February 3, 1993. The V-Spec added Brembo brakes and a retuned ATTESA E-TS system to the Nismo and N1 packages, as well as 17" BBS wheels with 225/45/17 tires. The V-Spec has a list price of ¥ 5.260 million.
Hi

I was reading the post above about "V" Spec 1 identification

Does the build number have to have the B for 17 inch wheels as well as the 7 and 8 missing?

EG The number KBNR32RXFSLMZG built 08/90. It does not have a 7 or 8 but come with 16 inch wheels and seems to early.

In what year and month were V specs first produced?

Cheers

Hi

I was reading the post above about "V" Spec 1 identification

Does the build number have to have the B for 17 inch wheels as well as the 7 and 8 missing?

EG The number KBNR32RXFSLMZG built 08/90. It does not have a 7 or 8 but come with 16 inch wheels and seems to early.

In what year and month were V specs first produced?

Cheers

Yes the build number has to have the B meaning 17 inch rims, the missing number in the code and AA on the end to be a vspec. Vspcs were released in 1993 so there is no way you would have one. For some reason nissan didnt always have the 7 in the model code for the "series 1" r32's (built until 1991 some time). They are always in the "series 2" model code though.

As for the last 4 letters of the model code, LMZG, i posted 2 pages back what they are.

You just have a normal r32 gtr.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...