Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the same MZG which doesn't seem to decode per writeups.

I do have the rear wiper.

I do have climate control

No clue on differential yet.

Can anyone help?

M = P+Q (Climate control (A/C) + Upgraded Sound (Sound System)

Z = Cold pack (Heated Mirrors)?

G = B+D (ABS + Visc LSD)

But since you don't have Rear Wiper / Climate Control... MZG should mean you don't have any of those... To save weight.

Your R32 is Gun Metal Grey and was built in Dec 1990... Signs point to a description of the Nismo Edition...

BUT! I am not saying it is... Can you find the Turbo Part numbers? Or do you know what Turbos you have on?

M = P+Q (Climate control (A/C) + Upgraded Sound (Sound System)

Z = Cold pack (Heated Mirrors)?

G = B+D (ABS + Visc LSD)

But since you don't have Rear Wiper / Climate Control... MZG should mean you don't have any of those... To save weight.

Your R32 is Gun Metal Grey and was built in Dec 1990... Signs point to a description of the Nismo Edition...

BUT! I am not saying it is... Can you find the Turbo Part numbers? Or do you know what Turbos you have on?

I have climate control

I have rear wiper

Stereo and all component s were missing when I got the car

I really don't know which diff (or diffs) are in the car right now but the factory service manual mentions nothing of a viscous diff in front or rear of GTR

I have ABS

Brakes are gold calipers Sumitumo up front (brembo?)

And grey calipers in rear

I'll check mirrors next time at the shop

Turbo part numbers are:

EA0138J

14411-24UD4

466071-6D

post-136202-0-91627400-1427017772_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-45910800-1427017789_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-03361000-1427017803_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-84676000-1427017816_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-27589200-1427017872_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

I have climate control

I have rear wiper

Stereo and all component s were missing when I got the car

I really don't know which diff (or diffs) are in the car right now but the factory service manual mentions nothing of a viscous diff in front or rear of GTR

I have ABS

Brakes are gold calipers Sumitumo up front (brembo?)

And grey calipers in rear

I'll check mirrors next time at the shop

Turbo part numbers are:

EA0138J

14411-24UD4

466071-6D

Ok cool!

I just realised I read your post wrong *Doh* >_< you DO have A/C / Rear Wiper and Stereo / ABS :)

So scrap the thing I said about Nismo.

You have a base model R32 GTR built in Dec 1990.

Stock Nissan brakes, it looks gold as they dark grey colour would have just faded over the years.

Turbo Part Numbers check out to be R32 / R33 GTR stock turbos (Both same).

Mechanical LSD was standard on the GTR's and Viscous was standard on all Turbo models, hence your R32 is Twin Turbo, it will have it.

And yeah, check the Mirror Switch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...