Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 13/01/2017 at 4:22 PM, RANDY said:

No probs! Cheers!

Presumably you don't have camber bolts in the struts?

Here are the part numbers for your car, and the alternate part numbers. The other side is 54505 with the same endings.

-Steve

2017-01-13 16_10_49-NFA010 Nissan FAST for Windows [1].png

Thanks Steve for your help. Based on the markings on the LCA's I have, is there anyway to know which is the correct ones?

Also I have noticed the inner and outer ball joints have markings and most likely a certain direction they need to be fitted. The service manual does not tell me much. Any further info in FAST? The outer ball joint has the following markings, 8 7 or L and R. I bet the bloody ball joints are around the wrong way. This would explain the difference in camber. I will check R faces the right side of the car. There are markings on the inner ball joint too. I has the letter B and the other the letter A. No idea what that is all about. I will remove both LCA's soon and double check orientation.

 

Also, can you tell me the part number for HICAS steering rear rack end for my car? BNR32-301183

Cheers Peter

Edited by my_gtr32
11 hours ago, my_gtr32 said:

Thanks Steve for your help. Based on the markings on the LCA's I have, is there anyway to know which is the correct ones?

Also I have noticed the inner and outer ball joints have markings and most likely a certain direction they need to be fitted. The service manual does not tell me much. Any further info in FAST? The outer ball joint has the following markings, 8 7 or L and R. I bet the bloody ball joints are around the wrong way. This would explain the difference in camber. I will check R faces the right side of the car. There are markings on the inner ball joint too. I has the letter B and the other the letter A. No idea what that is all about. I will remove both LCA's soon and double check orientation.

 

Also, can you tell me the part number for HICAS steering rear rack end for my car? BNR32-301183

Cheers Peter

Hey mate, i'm not sure on what sort of markings are on the parts, but if they look identical from left to right and they measure up the same, it's probably fine. I'm not sure about ball joint direction, other than one is for the left and other for the right. Do you have camber bolts?

Not sure if i've found the part you want:

2017-01-16 09_24_47-NFA025  ILLUSTRATION.png

2017-01-16 09_25_47-NFA010 Nissan FAST for Windows [1].png

1 hour ago, RANDY said:

Hey mate, i'm not sure on what sort of markings are on the parts, but if they look identical from left to right and they measure up the same, it's probably fine. I'm not sure about ball joint direction, other than one is for the left and other for the right. Do you have camber bolts?

Not sure if i've found the part you want:

2017-01-16 09_24_47-NFA025  ILLUSTRATION.png

2017-01-16 09_25_47-NFA010 Nissan FAST for Windows [1].png

Hi, no the part you looked for is not the right one. I need the tie rod shaft. 48521 is the first bit of the part number. What is the full part number?

I don't have camber bolts but have adjustable upper arms. When I purchased the car the right front wheel always needed the upper arm to be 10mm longer than left to match camber. This screws up caster and ride height. I changed the right arm and now I only have 0.5 degree camber on the right where before it would have been over 2 degrees. That is a huge change so a little variation of the LCA length (from ball joint to ball joint), makes a big difference to camber It measures 315mm on a GTR LCA.

Standard upper arms are 178mm long on a R32 GTR, so if you lower the car to 350mm from hub centre the camber will increase to 1.4 degrees or so. With the right LCA marked 3405U, camber is 0 degree. I have it adjusted as short as possible which is 175mm and I get 0.5 degree instead of almost 2 which you would expect.

I have never heard of any direction the ball joints need to be installed either but why is there markings on them and mention in the service manual that many do go in a certain way. A few millimetres difference in the length of the LCA is all that it takes to resolve the issue. I either have another bent arm (unlikely) or it simply isn't the correct part for a late model R32. All I have to go by is the numbers stamped in the arms. I need to match these numbers with the part numbers you have given me. Nightmare.

Cheers

2 hours ago, my_gtr32 said:

Hi, no the part you looked for is not the right one. I need the tie rod shaft. 48521 is the first bit of the part number. What is the full part number?

I don't have camber bolts but have adjustable upper arms. When I purchased the car the right front wheel always needed the upper arm to be 10mm longer than left to match camber. This screws up caster and ride height. I changed the right arm and now I only have 0.5 degree camber on the right where before it would have been over 2 degrees. That is a huge change so a little variation of the LCA length (from ball joint to ball joint), makes a big difference to camber It measures 315mm on a GTR LCA.

Standard upper arms are 178mm long on a R32 GTR, so if you lower the car to 350mm from hub centre the camber will increase to 1.4 degrees or so. With the right LCA marked 3405U, camber is 0 degree. I have it adjusted as short as possible which is 175mm and I get 0.5 degree instead of almost 2 which you would expect.

I have never heard of any direction the ball joints need to be installed either but why is there markings on them and mention in the service manual that many do go in a certain way. A few millimetres difference in the length of the LCA is all that it takes to resolve the issue. I either have another bent arm (unlikely) or it simply isn't the correct part for a late model R32. All I have to go by is the numbers stamped in the arms. I need to match these numbers with the part numbers you have given me. Nightmare.

Cheers

yeah wow. What a mess! Good luck with that I suppose!?

 

2017-01-16 14_05_47-NFA010 Nissan FAST for Windows [1].png

  • 2 weeks later...
44 minutes ago, Giaccovitch said:

Hi could anybody match mine,

BNR32-005619

Engine no. 004051 A

My FAST won't look that up for some reason, but it does show on http://gtr-registry.com/en-bnr32-vin-table.php just chuck the 6 digits in the search box on the right. =-]

1 hour ago, RANDY said:

My FAST won't look that up for some reason, but it does show on http://gtr-registry.com/en-bnr32-vin-table.php just chuck the 6 digits in the search box on the right. =-]

Fixed it.

2017-02-09 16_52_00-NFA010 Nissan FAST for Windows [1].png

2 hours ago, RANDY said:

My FAST won't look that up for some reason, but it does show on http://gtr-registry.com/en-bnr32-vin-table.php just chuck the 6 digits in the search box on the right. =-]

Cheers mate, is there any way to see what car my engine is from?

5 hours ago, Giaccovitch said:

Cheers mate, is there any way to see what car my engine is from?

mmm... as in: is it an R33 engine or something... my bro-in-law has that scenario and I think stuff like the oil pump is different and a few other obscure things. I'll have a dig around.

On 2/9/2017 at 11:06 PM, RANDY said:

mmm... as in: is it an R33 engine or something... my bro-in-law has that scenario and I think stuff like the oil pump is different and a few other obscure things. I'll have a dig around.

Yeah not sure what engine it is

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...