Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly oil temp. I am rewiring a bunch of meters, and i always thought you wanted to measure the temp of oil in the sump. So in my case i would place the temp sensor after the oil cooler, so i get an idea of the temp of oil the engine is about to ingest.

Now a friend was sayign recently that his mechanic had it on the oil line to the cooler so you read the temp of the oil coming out of the engine.

So anyones thoughts on who is right or why they plumb theirs a certain way.

Also with the oil pressure sensor, does anyone know the thread size? I was going to plun my new VDO sensor in the location of the std sensor. Can you just run a t-piece in the oil cooler lines??? Doenst seem ideal but would make life easier during the insall

you measure water temp after it leaves the engine ....

i would think the same applies to oil temps

but then again, nearly everyone says sump to me aswell. other than people who have the sandwich plates and they just use them without knowing whether its in or out feed

Not sure with piston engines but I know with turbine engines the sensor is generally on the scavenge side of the system, so between engine out and the cooler, it's said this indicates failure more quickly. Makes sense to me that it would work the same way with cars.....

Measuring from a t-piece isn't the best solution as this creates a restriction in the flow, better if you can use an inline sensor.....

Well i will probably end up just teeing into the std location and running some 1/8" tube or something to the inner guard where i will mount it.

msi-press.jpg

The vibration is meant to hurt then if you mount them direct to the engine hence my wanting to use a tpiece into the cooler line...also helps with access

i just mounted the sensors for my defi gauges (oil pres, oil temp) both into the side of the greddy remote filter mount.

on the afla we run a line (braided) from the standard location up to a little 'bar' which is milled from a billet. it has a hole in each end (one is blocked, one has the feed) then 3 holes in the top. One has pressure sensor, one temp, one warning buzzer sensor. It is basically a little fuel rail. very neat way to do it, and it means we can mount it on the firewall so the wiring is away from all the hot stuff. and it's all easy to access.

i just mounted the sensors for my defi gauges (oil pres, oil temp) both into the side of the greddy remote filter mount.

on the afla we run a line (braided) from the standard location up to a little 'bar' which is milled from a billet. it has a hole in each end (one is blocked, one has the feed) then 3 holes in the top. One has pressure sensor, one temp, one warning buzzer sensor. It is basically a little fuel rail. very neat way to do it, and it means we can mount it on the firewall so the wiring is away from all the hot stuff. and it's all easy to access.

wouldn't the temp one lag with this not being a flow through type setup ??

once the line is primed wouldnt the oil that is there to start with not be removed from its place if its pressurised ?? hence taking a long time to heat up since it isnt passing through the engine.

just thinking of the path of least resistance..

  • 3 weeks later...

in addition to the above, can anyone help me out regarding the method of changing the oil pressure sender on an R33?

I have the new sender and can see where the plug goes into the old one, just need to know how to go about changing it or whether it is best left to a mechanic. don't want oil to be spilling out all over the place if i remove it.

this is a requirement of a RWC and i kinda need this sorted this afternoon!

any help hugely appreciated.

(apologies for posting in 2 sections, need an answer asap)

wouldn't the temp one lag with this not being a flow through type setup ??

once the line is primed wouldnt the oil that is there to start with not be removed from its place if its pressurised ?? hence taking a long time to heat up since it isnt passing through the engine.

just thinking of the path of least resistance..

nah, the oil is definately flowing through there. oil temp is responsive enough, oil pressure is really responsive too. it's amazing how much faster it works than the stock gauge, though at a constant reading their values are very close.

tommo, are you sure oil pressure guage is a RWC requirement? most cars dont even have one.

tommo, are you sure oil pressure guage is a RWC requirement? most cars dont even have one.

sorry, it's not the actual guage, he sighted "oil around oil pressure switch (sender)", possibly from me spilling a little oil when changing the filter last. only item on his list other than stock airbox ;)

thought fair enough, rang up bursons and got the part, but now the mechanic is too busy to fit it this arvo.

buyer is flying in tonight and driving back to the ACT, so i'm kinda in a bit of a hurry

Edited by thommo

I'm about to do what Beer Baron did, was going to tap it into the sump but the guys at Motorsport Connections said that a t to a remote location on the chasis is fine and very common

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...