Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will be looking at 15 - 16k all up - I got my s2 R33 for 17500 (incl rego etc). My opinion would be to keep looking - although aside from the steering and the gear shifter, the car looks very neat.

Id say, if you can get the car up, check for leakages and all around the engine block. The welsh plugs and all the piping for the coolant. Check the belts if you can. Have a look for any rust spots under the car - there was a thread with pics of rusts on r32s - scared the shit outta me.

Dont try RACV. Apparently they dont know how to really check out the engine and all that. Warranty might be worth looking into - check with the seller if he is including warranty with it.

good luck bud ;)

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

and it sounds like you'd be leaving yourself with $0 for things going wrong...probably not a good idea.

This is your major problem....make sure you have it checked out properly.

But having said that ,not many people will go out of there way to look at the thing to make sure all

is well. I agree with the rest $14K is steep. I know some people trying to get $19K for stock gtr32's although the

better examples are around $22K.

Really a bit of advice to you. Take the car for a full once over by either nispro,racepace or any other respectfull

garage, no matter if it takes them 3 hour and $300 later.

The money you could save on repairs could be 20 times that amount.

Get everything in writing ....no......i'll get that fixed no problems.

The old saying is so true..........buyer beware.

Get everything in writing ....no......i'll get that fixed no problems.

The old saying is so true..........buyer beware.

GREAT POINT!!!!

Everything he said he will fix, put it down on paper and you both sign, with a witness :whistling:

Even ask how he intends to cover the holes in the boot lid. If he is just going to bog it up don't accept it. The hole need to be filled properly and only a minimal amount of bog used. Put this down on paper too.

Even ask how he intends to cover the holes in the boot lid. If he is just going to bog it up don't accept it. The hole need to be filled properly and only a minimal amount of bog used. Put this down on paper too.
Car comes with a GT wing but he can swap it for a standard r32 wing and bog/respray the existing holes for free. P

Ill be calling the seller tomorrow and tell him $13k with rego. He is asking for too much considering there is no warranty. He had a white one for sale for $15,500 but dropped it to $13,500 couple of weeks ago. He will drop this black one down soon enough.

Intercooler fan? Maybe its for the drink cooler in the glovebox? Believe it or not it was an option...

Anyway, it looks like a great car (from the other side of a computer screen). If you can get it for a bit cheaper, good on you.

But then again if you are happy with the car and it is the best condition one you have seen, it may be worth the extra $1k. As I'm sure others will agree with me, buying a good quality car in the first place is the key to being happy with your purchase.

I bought my R32 GTSt 3 years ago, was absolutely the best one out of the 20 or so i had seen (and 5 or so i had seriously considered and driven). I paid $16500 back then. And I dont regret it at all, I havent had a problem since...

I don't understand why you wouldn't get a SII R33 for around $2k more including RWC & Rego... you'll be getting a newer car.. ANYWAYS..

Compression test <- important I think..

FULL TANK OF FUEL <- $100 saving later on down the track

Take it for a decent drive <- make sure your happy..

Get an inspection <- combined with point 1..

Start it when it's cold <- make sure they aren't starting it and warming it up before you get there..

Remember you've got insurance to pay + better tyres once you've bought it.. Steering wheel looks crap as well, get that replaced.. what about the brakes? get the rotor's machined..

thanks for all your input, although Roy's may be a bit out there :)

In regards to the choice of the r33, it is easy to say just another 2grand. But just another 2grand ontop of that could get a r34 and so forth. Also the r33 is illegal for P-Platers and living 5 mins from knox i dont think it would be a good idea :yes: I just like the look of the r32 so its really preference.

When i first arrived I asked him straight away if the car had any probs with cold starts. He told me to go touch the motor and to feel that its cold. What i might do is call him and offer him $13,000 without the bov and any wing. Seeing as that should add up to be $500~ Many R32 gtst owners are selling their wings on this forum so it shouldnt be a problem.

If I take the car as is, that gt spoiler will leave about 12 holes in the boot :) including the other 2 holes from the stock spoiler.

He did the compliancing himself so he should have made money regardless if I brought the car to him for compliancing. He was selling a white r32 for $15,500 but then dropped it to $13,500 after a couple of weeks. A week waiting shouldnt hurt. :D

Althought he told me that he knew SAU so he could be reading this thread hehe.

Thanks

I just got in contact with him and told him that I've only got $13k and suprisingly he accepted? Thats 13k AS IS with the boot holes and some scuffs around the car.

If i get the stock r32 wing ill have a lot of holes from the gt, if i get the gt ill only have 2 holes from the stock wing.

Is it still worth $13k cause i need to call him back and accept :wave: haha

Boot Lid:

dscn2511mediumce7.th.jpg

dscn2525mediumsk7.th.jpg

sounds like this guy is the 1 calling the shots, and not you...

$13k as is, or $14k with all the shit you listed fixed....

Hmmm...

It wont take $1000 to fix all the problems? Only problem is that scuff mark and boot holes which is just cosmetic. Thinking of going spoiler/bov-less and getting him to cover rego. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...