Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why is everyone comparing a good condition 32 to random cheap 33's? ;)

If someone is after a nice 32, why does it matter what price 33's go for? need to compare apples with apples :)

IMO i don't care how cheap 33's get, if i'm after a nice 32, i'm after a nice 32.....

anyway, it seems like racepace have given it the all clear, so as long as Patrick is happy then its sweet :)

Agreed..............
  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

This is your major problem....make sure you have it checked out properly.

But having said that ,not many people will go out of there way to look at the thing to make sure all

is well. I agree with the rest $14K is steep. I know some people trying to get $19K for stock gtr32's although the

better examples are around $22K.

Really a bit of advice to you. Take the car for a full once over by either nispro,racepace or any other respectfull

garage, no matter if it takes them 3 hour and $300 later.

The money you could save on repairs could be 20 times that amount.

Get everything in writing ....no......i'll get that fixed no problems.

The old saying is so true..........buyer beware.

Hi guys, i just wanted to ask u fellas where the nispro and racepace garages are located in melbourne? ALso just wanted to grab an approx. price cos i wanted to get a 32 checked out aswell, just like our mate Rekin here, and wanted to go for a comprehensive check of everything. Thanks boys, let me know of your thoughts :P

Good looking 32... go the 32's ..if it checks out and i read that it has...go for it.. spend a little more for less headache. If the car is in that great a conditon then the owner or the salesperson is generally going to ask for a little bit more money.. U can go and buy a cheap 10k or less 32gtst but if there was an engine failure of some sort imagine the cost of having it either rebuilt or having another donk dropped in. I know it would cost around or more then 3k...

Name: Racepace

Contact: Ben

9/6 Halloway Drive, Bayswater

9762 9421

Racepace - $100 for inspection including compression (although they are trying to get out of the inspection scene)

Name: EAS Performance

Contact: Vic

Number: 9330 2001

Location: Airport West.

$150 for inspection including compression, leakdown test, test drive

Protek

273 Dundas St

Preston 3072

03 9484 3117

$180 for full inspection including compression, leakdown, test drive.

$80 extra for dyno run.

Ive only delt with RacePace and EAS and very satisfied. Protek is quote over phone.

- Patrick

thats meanr34's car, dave. he sold it too mook

Nah Paul, that's not my car (or should I say Mooks now).

Mine had a 34GTR rear wing & diff wheels & side mirrors.

Dunno whose that is, but it's a diff car.

Edited by Mean_R34
Nah Paul, that's not my car (or should I say Mooks now).

Mine had a 34GTR rear wing & diff wheels & side mirrors.

Dunno whose that is, but it's a diff car.

The people who attended the formal were:

Bass Junky, Adzmax, NismoR34 and Paulr33

I believe that is NismoR34's car

Trying to organise the payment of the car but have a couple of questions.

If i prepare a bank check for the seller, what happens after that? He takes the bank check to any branch and they give him the cash in hand?

Im hearing stories about that they will only pay out cash if the seller goes to the same branch you issued the check, and that the bank wont issue out large sums of cash ie. $12750~.

Could anyone clear this up as I do not really want to walk around with a large sum of money.

Car will be ready on Saturday, and there is no way i can withdrawl that amount of cash by then. So I will get a bank check tomorrow and pick up car >_<

Trying to organise the payment of the car but have a couple of questions.

If i prepare a bank check for the seller, what happens after that? He takes the bank check to any branch and they give him the cash in hand?

Im hearing stories about that they will only pay out cash if the seller goes to the same branch you issued the check, and that the bank wont issue out large sums of cash ie. $12750~.

Could anyone clear this up as I do not really want to walk around with a large sum of money.

Car will be ready on Saturday, and there is no way i can withdrawl that amount of cash by then. So I will get a bank check tomorrow and pick up car >_<

When you get a bank cheque, the money is already gone from your account at that point...its not like it comes out only when he cashes it...its basically like you give the money to the bank, they give u a piece of paper, and he takes the piece of paper to tell the bank to give him ur money...

He'll deposit the bank cheque at any branch (definitely does not have to be the same one) and they'll deposit that amount of money into the account he nominates.

Then if he wants, he can withdraw it all from his account.

I've withdrawn massive amounts of money from the bank, its not like an ATM where the limit is $800 a day....

i had a bank cheque made up when i bought mine. As long as the dealers/compliancers business name is the way he wanted it on the bank cheque and the right amount is on it - you shouldnt have any problems. Prblem with bank chqs is that you incur a fee. But hey, its a very small price to pay for hours and hours of fun! >_<

I called the seller and told him I'll pay via bank cheque, he wanted cash but i explained to him its the same thing? He may have thought i said Personal Cheque? although I have no idea between the both of them. Commerce isnt my strong point >_<

He told me the name to put the bank cheque under anyways so yeah..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...