Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok first of all a BIG thanks goes out to greg at proengines and the rest of the guys there, greg was kind enough (and willing!) to help me source out parts for my rebuild since bits like bearings and timing cogs arent available here stateside, so again a GIGANITIC hooray for greg!

internal mods:

full arp bottom end (rods, mains, and head studs)

proengines crank collar

new nissan n1 oil pump

cp pistons (20thou over, .5mm iirc)

prepped stock rods

nsk bearings (mains and rods)

dual tomei oil restrictors (sorry SK, i'd rather err on the side of saftey when it comes to hydrolifters)

top end:

tomei cams

new nissan oem lifters (i cried when i paid for these)

tomei valve springs

external drains fitted to head

still putting the motor together but its finaly comming together.

only thing im not sure bout right now is the fittings in the head for the oil drain, not sure if the brass bits are up to the job or if i need something else.

thoughts on said fittings are welcome, oil pan isnt sealed right now so i can figure out where to place the return lines...

IMGP0770.jpg

IMGP0781.jpg

IMGP0778.jpg

IMGP0776.jpg

IMGP0800.jpg

IMGP0797.jpg

IMGP0808.jpg

IMGP0813.jpg

IMGP0818.jpg

IMGP0822.jpg

IMGP0827.jpg

IMGP0832.jpg

IMGP0834.jpg

IMGP0830.jpg

IMGP0835.jpg

Edited by carl h
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

chances are that those brass fitings with sutable rubber hose will be 100% fine but i prefer to use braided hose for stuff like that, just makes me sleep at night.

(i have used rubber hose in oil cooler applications that are that hot and pressurized with no problems so you will still be fine, but i still like braided even as its astronomical price)

Edited by GTR1993

much respect to you.

even though the rb25 has the upper hand and is an obviously easy engine swap to produce more power, im glad to see someone putting some serious effort into an rb20.

cheers. james.

thanks for the kind replys guys, its taken me a while to collect all the misc bits i needed to rebuilt the motor.

cubes: motor failed (which i speculate) was due to the previous owner in japan not knowing how to tune a car took the std ecu, chipped it and slapped 30* advance all over the timing map. accelerated ring wear and caused ring land eroding detonation...then you have me doubling the stock power out put and well, old girl wasnt too happy.

gtr1993: word. i'll change them out for steel bits anyways, last thing i want to do is remove a broken fitting from the head with the motor in the car.

BHDave: the ignitior is actualy part of a new nissan z32 retrofit kit, my ignitior had taken a shit and since rb20 parts dont grow on trees here had to get creative, some repinning and the z32 one works a treat; plus it looks loads better than the std piece :).

fr0st: didnt go rb24 for a number of reasons formost being cost for the rewards, i couldnt justify the money spent on the power the motor would make. motor was making 288rwkw sooo with a fresh bottom end it can do more for sure. would have loved to do a rb24 but when you factor in parts cost and the machine work to mod the head and what not, simply not worth it as SK said long ago.

r31 power: brass fittings are for the external oil drain for the head, trying to keep oil pooling to a minimum with the use of restrictors and the external drains.

i'll have more pics soon enough, any luck i'll be able to mount the oil pan and then the exhaust mani and turbo...then its just a matter of getting the motor back into the car and breaking it in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...