Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Its been a while since i've been on here as I sold my 34GT-t. Now i'm looking at selling my current car and returning to the Nissan fold. My question is this, what benefits does the R33 GTR have of the R32 ?? Am I still able to pop the ATESSA fuse on the 33 and put it into RWD mode on the 33 ?

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/
Share on other sites

or get an attessa controller bluprint :thumbsup:

advantages the 32 has over the 33.

stock, the 32 beats the 33 performance wise.

obviously the 33 has slightly more responsive handling etc due to steering upgrades etc.

but the 33 interior is a bit, disappointing really.

I have been looking at both recently and read many reviews. They say out of all 3 gtr's, the 32 is the most chuckable, and it's also the most fun to drive out of all 3.

Match that with good prices, great performance, the best looks IMO (34's rank second just because they're so aggressive but I think they are too big) and the ability to pop the fuse (if you want) then you have a great car.

Attessa controllers to disable the front drive on 33's and 34's CAN be expensive, but I would view it as an investment to greater handling at the same time as you could then tweak the 4WD better and create a better handling car for road / circuit use.

GO THE 32 :dry: I am.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2405296
Share on other sites

ALL GTR'S ARE EXPENSIVE TO FIX.

:thumbsup: you should know that by now.

as for the age. I'm getting a 94 model because like you I was slightly concerned with that. But seriously, anything old can be upgraded or replaced. If the interior gets tired, re trim it. If the body is in bad nic, re do it.

Everything comes down to money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2405628
Share on other sites

ALL GTR'S ARE EXPENSIVE TO FIX.

:) you should know that by now.

as for the age. I'm getting a 94 model because like you I was slightly concerned with that. But seriously, anything old can be upgraded or replaced. If the interior gets tired, re trim it. If the body is in bad nic, re do it.

Everything comes down to money.

Yeah, this is true. I'm currently driving an 02 STi, but want to return to RWD (i like skids :no:). I was looking at an FD RX7 but they are still priced too highly. The GTR seems to be the best all round car for what I want.

Edited by Binky1970
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2405735
Share on other sites

for the R33

Age

looks more modern (way better in my opinion)

R33 has a upgraded ATTESSA system its a faster car around a racetrack in factory form

R33 is more refined / comfortable

For the R32

slightly quicker in a straight line.

hardcore racer

more fun to drive

Have a read of the specs on my website.

http://nissanskyline.6te.net

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2430780
Share on other sites

I don't like the way people seem to love 32's cos they are "faster" Only in a straight line. Around a race track a 33 and 34 GTR would be faster. Nissan wouldn't of gone backwards. Anyone can redline a car and drop the clutch it takes a bit more skill to go around some corners.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2431670
Share on other sites

Bang for buck go a 32.

Faster isnt always better. Im old skool love the look. Dislike the 33's would rather a 34. but since i cant have that (well i can but i choose to see the world instead.. hrrm hard choicce) im saving my pennies for a 32. well i aint saving. I told my boss id stay if he gave me 10K cash in hand in january! lmao whe i get back from OS he said ok son

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2432565
Share on other sites

But you have to remember if you do the same mods on a 32 as a 33 the power gained will be greater on a 33. Same goes for the 34.

Chris

Ummm why is that? all have rb26dett, obviously minor upgrades from one to the other, but i dont understand how you have come to this determination...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2432852
Share on other sites

Ummm why is that? all have rb26dett, obviously minor upgrades from one to the other, but i dont understand how you have come to this determination...

Better: engineering, turbo's, intercoolers, dump pipes, etc.

If you still dubt it, look in HPI issue 51 ;)

PS: If i had to choose between a R32 or R33 GTR, i would personally go for the R32. I love my 33 GTST, and chose a 33 over a 32 GTST, but when it comes to GTRs i always prefered the 32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2433133
Share on other sites

Ummm why is that? all have rb26dett, obviously minor upgrades from one to the other, but i dont understand how you have come to this determination...

If they were all the same why would people lash out and spend money on a newer model. As they other guy has stated things get revised with a each model you dont think they would be exactly the same do you?

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2434589
Share on other sites

If they were all the same why would people lash out and spend money on a newer model. As they other guy has stated things get revised with a each model you dont think they would be exactly the same do you?

Chris

Of course they are not the exact same and i never said that, and obviously people will pay more for a newer model, but i would have thought, that the basic engine is very similar and to say that a 33 gtr will always respond better to mods than a 32 gtr (especially when you consider the weight of the cars) i would not have agreed with.

Also I would consider the fact that the 32gtr in straight line was quicker than the 33 to start with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130024-choices/#findComment-2435047
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...