Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol ok ash. if you're going to nit pick at every post of mine, good luck.

I asked a question, hence the "?"

Because as khunjeng stated, the SAU stickers do not work the way other stickers with a backing sheet do.

Sarah put mine on fine, but she still didnt do it the way stickers with a backing sheet are supposed to work

And if your gonna try and assume things off every post of mine, then good luck to you aswell.

I have no idea what "sarahs" way is. Am i expected to know?

Your assuming i do know... and i most certainly do not :no:

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

And if your gonna try and assume things off every post of mine, then good luck to you aswell.

I have no idea what "sarahs" way is. Am i expected to know?

Your assuming i do know... and i most certainly do not :no:

i got paul's gf to do mine, , and she had to pick each letter off 1 by 1 and do it that way....

sorry, i thought i had typed it clearly enough in my post...I shouldn't have assumed you read the thread before posting :)

sorry, i thought i had typed it clearly enough in my post...I shouldn't have assumed you read the thread before posting :no:

as i said guys, i didnt have to do it that way for all of them, but it is certainly a safe and effective way to do it.

so far I have had a few themes come throuh...but none help my sticker efort. I have tried to peal them off slow and the thing just doesn't work damn it!

hard to say what the problem is then, possibly the user if so many people have managed to do it with no troubles.

but no one can be sure i guess

my stickers sucked! took a while to get them on. washed windows with the glass cleaner stuff. got the stickers onto the transfer sheet by sitting at the table with a rasor blade and slowly lifting the stickers off. didnt destroy 1. even the dot on the i came off.

anyone attempt this, i take no responsability for u slicin ur fingers off. :wave:

cyas tomorroz

in this thread is the only place I have heard of people not having trouble with those stickers.

The way I did mine, after I realized that they wanted to stick to the back sheet not the front, was peel it really really really really slowly, and when a letter starts to stick to the back get under the corner of it with a fingernail while you have as much of the two sheets on the letter as possible..

if that makes sense.. I suppose pictures paint a thousand words...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...